Vale Grenache artisan Peter Fraser

Written By Angus Hughson

words by Angus Hughson

In late November 2025, Australia and McLaren Vale lost one of its most famous winemakers, Peter Fraser from the Jackson family owned Yangarra and Hickinbotham Wines, where he had long worked alongside Californian winemaker Chris Carpenter. I attended a small tasting with Peter a couple of weeks prior to his passing and was already planning on covering the short vertical of one of his leading wines, the High Sands Grenache, to chart its journey over the last fifteen years as a pivotal offering in the rise of Australian Grenache. Unfortunately it is now also an appropriate time to explore Fraser’s wider impact and potential legacy.

While scores and reviews are snapshots of a winemaker’s working life, the greatest practitioners also have an enduring impact that reaches far into the future. While it is early days, there is no doubt that Peter’s work and his influence in McLaren Vale will resonate for many years to come. He was incredibly popular within the McLaren Vale winemaking community and had, through his body of work, also taken both official and unofficial leadership roles in the region. Peter will sorely be missed and the region will undoubtedly be colored by his loss for some years to come.

Peter Fraser had enjoyed a number of  roles in the wine trade after finding wine during time serving in the Australian Army Reserve. Born and bred in McLaren Vale, his first major winemaking gig was at local stalwart Normans’ Wines. When the property was sold to the Jackson family in December 2001 Fraser was the natural choice to lead winemaking at the new venture, renamed Yangarra, having already cemented his reputation in the region as a young and rising star despite a relatively short resume - it proved to be an inspired choice.

Yangarra is an expansive property, 176 hectares of which 71 are currently under vine in one of the higher locations for the Blewitt Springs zone. Over the years the property has been diced up into a patchwork of vineyards planted with 15 varieties between 170 and 210 metres in altitude. The focus is largely Rhone red and white varietals, including more obscure grapes such as Muscardin and Piquepoul Noir. The key older plantings are Grenache in the High Sands vineyard, planted in 1946, and Blocks 6 and 9 of white Rhone varietals also planted in 1946, with much of the remainder planted in 1999.

What followed the property acquisition and rebrand was a meteoric rise of Yangarra from zero to become a regional leader within fifteen years, assisted by investment from the Jackson family and the exacting work of vineyard manager Michael Lane. It is unlikely that Yangarra would have risen so high and gained its stellar reputation without the determined and tenacious Fraser at the helm and together he and Lane moved the vineyards to organic and biodynamic production while Peter was also pushing winemaking boundaries.

With such a plum gig, it would have been easy for Fraser to follow a traditional path while he, in fact, did the opposite. Yangarra was arguably the largest winery to invest significantly in alternative ferment and maturation vessels including amphorae and ceramic eggs as well as the production of skin fermented white wines. Larger company winemakers are generally conservative by design but Peter bucked that trend. It led to the odd misstep but, far from a criticism, this is the natural course for genuine innovators pushing hard and deserves recognition and respect. His commitment to being a force for change was unwavering. The relatively recent movement at Yangarra from local ceramic vessels that he had championed to Italian Clayvers, at no doubt significant cost, showcased that continual willingness to re-evaluate past decisions in a constant search for greater refinement in his wines. Fraser was always of a singular mind confident in the decisions being taken both in the Yangarra vineyard and winery but also happy to be a broader ambassador for Grenache and McLaren Vale, and mentor to those on a similar journey.

The first wines from Yangarra that put this winery firmly on the fine wine map were early vintages of the Old Vine Grenache, made from original 1946 plantings. Most Australian Grenache up until that time had been overripe, overcropped, or both, but these powerful, stylish and more modern expressions showcased the potential for old vine wines from McLaren Vale. They were also of ridiculous value such were the general consumer attitudes to this varietal as a bit-player far below Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir. How the tide has turned with average old vine Grenache fruit prices now some of the highest in the country, with Fraser playing an important part in that metamorphosis.

The Old Vine Grenache became a hit and regularly sold out in record time. While the white wines occasionally hit the heights of the reds, the quality of Yangarra Shiraz and Grenache were always assured, with the usual fluctuations of vintages. It was no surprise to see exceptional Shiraz but the wines I always looked forward most to tasting were the Grenache that showed an admirable blend of power and control, and it is here that Peter Fraser’s legacy will be significant and long lasting.

Fraser was not only a big believer in the potential for Grenache in Australia but also led from the front as one of a small number of local winemakers to make stylish wines with genuine finesse and structure. The 2010 vintage of High Sands Grenache, despite being relatively early in this label’s evolution, is still drinking well and will continue to do so for some years to come. It was a slow process as Fraser moved over two decades from traditional winemaking methods for Australian red wines to techniques better suited to the unique qualities of Grenache, particularly from McLaren Vale, protecting the finished wines with a more protective and nuanced elevage. This change was most important for the High Sands Grenache, Peter’s parting gift to the wine world.

The High Sands vineyard was planted in 1946 on the highest point of the Yangarra property in the South Western corner on Maslin sands with white sands over clay and then red ironstone. The first vintage was in 2005 and these wines were more in keeping with Australian Grenache at the time, weighing in at 15.5% alcohol with the modern style starting to take shape in 2010 in part due to the introduction of sorting tables.

The old vines generally yield from 1.5 to 2 tonnes per acre providing impressive concentration matched with pH of 3.1 to 3.3, which is low compared to wines from the Rhone Valley. Longer skin and lees contact has become vital in part to help the malolactic ferments go through while cool ferments retain pristine, primary fruit characters. Peter trialled whole bunch fruit but had never had any luck, until the as yet unreleased 2024 vintage which included 10% whole bunches. And over the years maturation prior to bottling reduced in time with an increasingly complex elevage. In an environment where the use of whole bunches has become de rigueur for aspirational Grenache winemakers, Peter’s reticence to follow the same path not only displays his intuitive winemaking and genuine understanding of wine quality but also a singular confidence in his own methods and pursuit of an individual style. 

In 2010, when somewhat traditional techniques were utilised for the High Sands Grenache, there were natural ferments in open fermenters with hand plunging and rack and return followed by 18-24 months in one to two year old oak barrels. But by 2014, oak maturation had dropped to 11 months with the addition of a 5-day cold soak and only hand plunging during ferment. In 2015, High Sands was only matured in older, small oak barrels which continued until 2018.

However it is the 2019 vintage where we start to see High Sands really hit its straps more consistently, with the introduction of large French oak and ceramic eggs with a shorter 11 month maturation making for brighter wines with greater purity and focus. That elevage then moved to a combination of old Austrian and French oak foudres, puncheons and ceramic eggs in 2021. 2022 had a proportion undergoing up to 180 days on skins while initial maturation was mixed between old puncheons, terracotta amphorae and ceramic eggs. The wine was blended and matured in a single large foudre with the balance in a sandstone egg and a puncheon for three months before bottling. By 2024 all the wine spent 10 weeks on skins with maturation for three and a half months in puncheons and ceramic clayver eggs before blending and final maturation in clayvers for another five months. The overall path and aims over the last fifteen years were clearly geared toward building greater texture and detail while also focussing on fruit purity and brightness, much of which was achieved through choice of maturation vessel and timing.

As is blatantly clear from this final vintage, Fraser was constantly tinkering and, in fact, the winemaking detail was becoming increasingly complex over time. I can not help but wonder what the next steps would have been in the evolution of the Yangarra High Sands Grenache under Peter Fraser. Unfortunately we will never know.

These wines were tasted in Sydney during November 2025.

Yangarra High Sands Grenache 2010

The 2010 Grenache High Sands is in a great spot with a delicious blends of dark cherry and blackberry aromas topped by dried herbs, roasted meat and soy sauce complexity with a strong earthy undertow. There is a brightness and freshness to the acidity that gives a lively feel to the fleshy palate while gentle tannins are perfectly integrated feeding a lengthy, fine finish. 2025 - 2033. 92 Points

Yangarra High Sands Grenache 2011

The 2011 Grenache High Sands shows the cooler vintage with bright red fruits to the fore - sweet red cherry with a dried strawberry lift and notable vitality. Light weight with sublte cranberry and rose petal flavors now just starting to be shadowed by a chalky acid frame and sandy tannins. Drinking well now but best enjoyed over the short term. 2025 - 2028. 88 Points

Yangarra High Sands Grenache 2012

The 2012 Grenache High Sands has built beautifully in the bottle with impressive volume of confident cherry compote, granite and dark earthy tones. Good tension between gravelly tannins and acidity provides a tight, focussed frame that feels a little stiff and unyielding. The length is excellent and this may hit a better groove with more time in bottle. 2028 - 2035. 91 Points

Yangarra High Sands Grenache 2013

The 2013 Grenache High Sands is expressive with a hearty blend of fruits of the forest aromas accented with savory granitic complexity. A dense and compact palate follows, spicy, dusty secondary tones add plenty of appeal to tarry/blackberry flavours. Strong tannins are balanced and provide excellent definition, which combined with powerful rocky and earthy flavours build to a strong and sustained finish. Still quite young and very promising. 2031 - 2038. 93 Points

Yangarra High Sands Grenache 2014

The 2014 Grenache High Sands is open for business with a flashy core of sweet cherry pie aromas laced with dried herbs and earthy spices. Mouthfilling fleshy flavours are decadent yet finely balanced while elongated powdery tannins and fine acidity provide enough backbone to hold this delicious package together for a long open-knit finish. Close to peak but will hold for a little while. 2025 - 2032. 93 Points

Yangarra High Sands Grenache 2015

The 2015 Grenache High Sands is quite charming with fresh red licorice aromas with nice touches of florals and star anise accented by roasted spices. Chalky textured and gentle weighted, this is a pretty and engaging Grenache best enjoyed over the short to medium term. 2025 - 2032. 91 Points

Yangarra High Sands Grenache 2016

The 2016 Grenache High Sands is showing some development with gentle aromas of cranberry and red licorice topped a touch of fennel seed. Compact in shape, with unusual chalky/dusty tones dominating through to an angular finish. Potentially not a perfect bottle. 2025 - 2030. 88 Points

Yangarra High Sands Grenache 2017

The 2017 Grenache High Sands has immediate appeal and impressive purity with fragrant aromas of red cherry, charcuterie and spice with a distinct Rhône feel. Youthful, bright and tight for eight years of age, it reamins compact and firm with chalky textures flowing through to a lengthy and fine finish. Understated but very impressive from what was a more challenging vintage. 2025 - 2031. 92 Points

Yangarra High Sands Grenache 2018

The 2018 Grenache High Sands has well focussed aromas of dark licorice, fennel seed and spice, quite tightly wound before moving into a pretty and floral palate. An attractive bite of acidity with chalky tannins provide a solid backbone to fleshy cranberry flavours which hold over a tight finish. 2027 - 2034. 92 Points

Yangarra High Sands Grenache 2019

The 2019 Grenache High Sands jumps out of the glass with generously proportioned aromas of cherry conserve, fennel seed and peppery spice which are well focussed. Full throttle yet finely tuned with lavish red fruit flavours accented by touches of leather and charcuterie. Fabulous volume of flavour with balanced rocky tannins build to a strong and well defined finish. 2025 - 2036. 94 Points

Yangarra High Sands Grenache 2020

The 2020 Grenache High Sands is reserved yet has plenty of charm with bacon fat and dark cherry aromas with intriguing garrigue elements. Mid weight and compact but beautifully weighted and textural with the first touches of aged roasted meat flavors just starting to emerge. Understated but delicious right now and with good aging potential. 2025 - 2033. 93 Points

Yangarra High Sands Grenache 2021

The 2021 Grenache High Sands has fabulous intensity and focus, energetic with a powerhouse of youthful rhubarb and fresh licorice aromas, still young and compact. Delivers waves of fascinating flavor, moving from a meaty, spicy core into brooding dark cherry, strong and composed with chalky tannins driving a long, dense finish that is build for the long haul. 2031 - 2042. 95 Points

Yangarra High Sands Grenache 2022

The 2022 Grenache High Sands is pure fruited and bursts with youthful cranberry and licorice aromas, with lovely detail and delicacy. Firm tannins are well matched to more expressive and ferrous flavours, with brilliant balance delivered over a long, well structured finish. Super young and a legend in the making. 2033 - 2046. 96 Points

Yangarra High Sands Grenache 2023

The 2023 Grenache High Sands is a pretty expression with a silky core of watermelon and raspberry aromas with touches of rose petals. Vibrant and medium weight with al-dente tannins while the spicy and star anise flavors are elegantly framed over a fine, sustained finish. 2026 - 2038. 93 Points

Yangarra High Sands Grenache 2024

The 2024 Grenache High Sands is generously proportioned opening up with sweet cherry compote and dried herb aromas in an expressive package. Full-bodied with pliable tannins and lacy acidity, there are waves of dark leather and licorice to follow with impressive power and length. A hearty approachable vintage which will build handsomely in bottle over the medium term. 2027 - 2038. 94 Points

Angus Hughson
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