A Deep Vinarchy Dive

The recently established Vinarchy, a blend of Pernod Ricard Winemakers and Accolade wine brands, is an amalgam of brands and labels with differing ambitions from divergent times and life cycles. With a portfolio of wine from primarily Australia, New Zealand, South Africa and Spain the business achieves around $1.5 billion in sales annually making this behemoth one of the largest wine producers in the world. Nonetheless, its portfolio is heavily weighted to Australia’s Riverland wine region (90% of its volume) and geared to the FMCG mentality of supermarkets and retail-multiples around the world. Vinarchy is also vulnerable to groups where own-brands proliferate. For instance, Endeavour Group, which owns Dan Murphy’s, BWS and Langton’s, is vertically integrated and each part is completely dependent on each other. It competes with its suppliers in almost every category. As a consequence, Vinarchy is often up against a system that works against it, particularly in Australia.

Nonetheless this corporate giant possesses a storied portfolio of historic labels that represent the essence of Australian wine history. With brands like Hardy’s, Reynella, Houghton, Orlando, St Hallett, Katnook, Petaluma, Grant Burge, Jacob’s Creek, Vinarchy is in theory a powerhouse. But its mixed track record of custodianship foreshadows some real problems ahead, unless it can formulate clear directions.

Preceding its merger with Pernod Ricard, Accolade had closed-down several of its operations, particularly in Coonawarra. It also sold off its House of Arras brand, its historic headquarters at Reynella and assets in Tasmania. In addition, Vinarchy has further consolidated its footprint by decommissioning the St Hallett Winery in the Barossa Valley and the historic Tintara Winery in Mclaren Vale. Meanwhile it is further investing $30 million at Rowland Flat in the Barossa Valley to process its massive intake of grapes and wine. In June last year Vinarchy announced a ‘twin-hub structure at Berri Estates and Rowland Flat’ to consolidate its resources and expertise while strengthening its competitive position in the global wine market.

The bean counters appear to be in control. Shuttering the Tintara Winery leaves the Hardy’s brand without a home. And the Rowland Flat winery is now a defacto orphanage for displaced wine brands. While a need to consolidate and regroup is understandable, there are consequences. Many of its Australian labels, like Reynella, Tatachilla, Houghton (almost), Leasingham and Goundry are essentially legacy brands, while others are destined to flop because they have been stripped bare of their original purpose.

The decision to sell off Tintara is a monumental mistake – especially considering the brand’s strategic importance and ultra-premium offerings. Nonetheless other brands like Jacob’s Creek and Jamshed, both connected with the Barossa (but not necessarily drawing fruit from the region) do their thing quite well. But ultimately authenticity and track record are vital components of fine wine. I always think of this category as being real estate of the mind and going beyond taste and quality. In many respects fine wine is a completely different belief system. One of the best things Vinarchy could do is create a fine wine division that is purposed to rebuild value in such labels as Croser, Grant Burge, St Hallett, Petaluma, Katnook and Eileen Hardy etc (It could also include some other labels like Church Road and Ysios) while also generating new product development on a small scale. The appointment of highly regarded wine industry veteran Aaron Brasher as the Head of Fine Wine is a large step in the right direction, assuming that their is a genuine willingness across the business to deploy resources in support of his mandate.

At a recent ‘salon’ tasting in Melbourne, I was able to taste through many of Vinarchy’s Australian wine labels (but not all of them!). Despite all that has been written above, the quality of the wines is excellent overall, highlighting the skill and creativity of the winemaking team. But to become a price maker, and control its destiny, Vinarchy needs to frame these brands into a more resonating, purposeful, relevant, and enduring story. That is – if it wishes to genuinely operate and lead in the fine wine category.

Tasting notes catalogued by variety – as per tasting.

2023 Jacob’s Creek Survivor Vines Riesling, Barossa – South Australia

A classic aged Barossa Riesling. Pale colour with lemon/lime/oilskin notes. Generous and sweet-fruited with lovely energy, mud palate volume and fresh indelible/ mineral acidity. Drinking well now. Keep for a while. Based on 100% 1920s vines. 11.5% alc 93 points

2024 Petaluma Riesling, Clare Valley – South Australia

Pale colour. Pure green lime aromas with oilskin notes. Generous lime cordial, flinty flavours, light chalky textures and sinuous crisp acidity. Should continue to develop. Drink now – 2032 12.5% alc 93 points

2024 Grant Burge East Argyle Pinot Gris, Adelaide Hills – South Australia

Pale colour. Pear skin, lemon curd, tonic water aromas with hints of green apple. Musky pear, green apple flavours, some bitter lemon notes and fresh long minerally acidity. Fruity and delicious to drink. An early drinking but timeless style. 12% alc 93 points

2023 Houghton Evolution 37 Old Vine Chenin Blanc, Margaret River – Western Australia

This is a beautifully focused contemporary style showing the versatility of low yielding chenin blanc. Intense lemon curd, nectarine, tonic water aromas and flavours with roasted almond, vanilla notes. A hint of crème brulée. Pure and flinty. Exceptional. Best to drink early – 2028. 13.5% alc 97 points

2023 Brookland Valley Reserve Chardonnay, Margaret River – Western Australia

Pale colour. Fresh flinty, white peach, nectarine aromas with vanilla, grilled nut notes. Fresh crunchy stonefruit flavours, fine al dente textures and intense pure acidity. A hint of flint/ vanilla/ malt at the finish. Lovely weight, texture and energy. Gingin clone. Drink now – 2028 13.5% alc 94+ points

2022 Orlando Lyndale Chardonnay, Adelaide Hills – South Australia

A contemporary cool climate chardonnay. Pear, nectarine, grilled nut, vanilla aromas and flavours. Minerally fresh and tight on the palate with green notes. Could build more mid palate richness with age, but probably best to drink early. Drink soon. 12.5% alc 90 points

2024 Petaluma Chardonnay, Piccadilly Valley, Adelaide Hills – South Australia

Pale colour. Classical yellow peach, apricot, grille nut touch flinty aromas. Generous peach, nectarine, apricot flavours, looseknit chalky textures, very good mid-palate creaminess and underlying fresh acidity. 30% new French oak. A very attractive wine but drink before 2028. 13.5% alc 95 points

2024 Bay of Fires Chardonnay, Coal River, East Coast – Tasmania

Pale colour. Flinty, lime squash. nectarine aromas with underlying marzipan/ malt notes. A core of pure fruit on the palate with al dente/ hint green textures and intense/ indelible acidity. Crunchy at the finish. 70% puncheon/ 30% barrique, 60% MLF. Drink now – 2030 13.5% alc 94 points

2024 St Hugo Signature Grenache Shiraz Mataro, Barossa – South Australia

Medium crimson. Juicy raspberry, dark plum aromas with choco-berry notes. Supple and buoyant with fine ripe tannins. Generous and slurpy with plentiful sweet fruit notes. 70% Grenache 29% Shiraz 1% Mataro. Drink now – 2030. 14% alc 92 points

2023 Grant Burge Holy Trinity Grenache, Barossa Valley – South Australia

More refined and complete. Medium deep colour. Dark plum, raspberry, dark chocolate hint black olive aromas with ginger notes. Concentrated dark plum, raspberry fruits with roasted walnut/ praline notes, fine grainy textures and underling acidity. Lovely mid palate density and flow. 38% Grenache 31% Shiraz 30% Mataro. Drink now – 2030 14.5% alc 95 points

2023 Hardy’s Eileen Hardy Pinot Noir, Tasmania

Medium deep crimson. Fresh strawberry, dark cherry aromas with roasted hazelnut notes, Generous, supple and pure strawberry pastille, dark cherry fruits, fine lacy textures, superb mid-palate viscosity and fresh long mineral acidity. Lovely colour, fruit definition and vinosity. Outstanding. Based on Coal River Valley (Tea Tree & Clemens Hill) and Derwent Valley (Meadowbank) vineyards. Primarily MV6 & 777 clones. Drink now – in a while. 13.5% alc 96+ points

2021 Houghton Jack Mann Cabernet Sauvignon, Frankland River, Lower Great Southern – Western Australia

Deep colour. Intense blackcurrant, dark chocolate, roasted chestnut, herb garden aromas. Expressive and generous with ample blackcurrant pastille, dark chocolate flavours, plentiful graphite tannins and underlying roasted chestnut notes. Muscular/ Ferruginous finish. Iron fist in a velvet glove type wine. A lovely claret style.  Based on the historic 1971 Justin Vineyard. 16 months in 40% new and seasoned French oak barriques. Drink now – 2038 95 points

2021 Grant Burge Shadrach Cabernet Sauvignon, Barossa – South Australia

Medium deep crimson. Black olive cassis aromas and flavours with leafy herb garden bush garrigue notes. Brambly and chocolaty on the palate with ample volume and underlying fresh acidity. Grippy and long at the finish. Based on Corryton Park and Cameron Vale fruit Drink now – 2036 14.5% alc 92 points

2022 Katnook Odyssey Cabernet Sauvignon, Coonawarra – South Australia

Deep colour. Blackcurrant pastille, mocha, capsicum herb garden, hint bush garrigue aromas and flavours, fine grainy tannins and pronounced acidity at the finish. Medium bodied and cylindrical in structure. Might develop more richness with age. Drink now – 2036 14.5% alc 92 points

2018 Jacob’s Creek Johann Shiraz Cabernet, Barossa Valley – South Australia

Deep crimson. Black cherry, cassis, dark chocolate, graphite aromas and flavours with ample vanilla roasted chestnut notes. Well concentrated, voluminous and generous. Drying tannins firm the palate up to the finish. Based on 1921-planted Willandra Vineyard, Rowland Flat. 58% shiraz 42% cabernet. Drink now – 2034 14.5% alc 93+ points

2018 St Hugo Vetus Purum Shiraz Cabernet, Barossa – South Australia

Deep crimson. Attractive cassis, mocha, sage aromas with bush garrigue/ hint violet notes. Pure cassis, mocha flavours, fine grained tannins and underlying vanilla oak. Finishes chocolaty firm and minerally. 18 months maturation in 100% new French oak barriques before bottling. Drink now – 2038 14% alc 94 points

2021 St Hallett Old Block Shiraz, Barossa – South Australia

Deep crimson. FIinty, damp earth, red cherry, mocha aromas and flavours with leafy tobacco notes. Attractive volume but tapered by high pitched acidity. Good, but not really what it should be. 54% Barossa Valley 46% Eden Valley. Drink now – 2035 92 points

2022 Katnook Prodigy Shiraz, Coonawarra – South Australia

Medium deep crimson. Red-fruited wine with ample red cherries, red plums and red currants with hint bush garrigue notes. High pitched and grainy with cabernet-like structure. Drink now – 2032 14.5% alc 90 points

2021 Hardy’s Eileen Hardy Shiraz, McLaren Vale – South Australia

Deep crimson. Gorgeous ripe blackberry dark chocolate aromas and flavours with underlying roasted chestnut notes, lovely mid plate volume/ concentration and fine-grained but firm and vigorous tannins. A ferruginous note at the finish. Acidity slightly at the fore, but delicious nonetheless. Drink now – 2036 14.5% alc 95 points