Yangarra High Sands Grenache, Mclaren Vale – South Australia Vertical 2010-2024 Vintages
When tasting Yangarra’s vertical of High Sands Grenache with Pete Fraser a few weeks ago, little did I know that it would be the last time I saw him or that the tasting would represent a legatum vitae. Like many in the wine industry, I am shocked by his tragic death and immensely sad at the immense void he has left. His work was not done. His future was bright as the stars he lived under. He was a master at his craft with the curiosity, skill and ambition to make a profound difference. Peter Fraser was without question an exceptional winemaker and one of the greats for his generation.
With his marvellous viticulturalist Michael Lane, Pete was redefining the McLaren Vale aesthetic with the most profound results. Importantly the team was doing this with the utmost respect to the generations before. As a consequence, I think of Yangarra High Sands Grenache as an homage to the past as much as a groundbreaking style. Sadly, I also think of this tasting as Peter Fraser’s final conversation with me.
While reviewing the Yangarra High Sands Grenache vintages with him and other wine writer friends at Bather’s Pavilion at Balmoral Beach, I had sensed Peter Fraser was embracing history as much as pushing the envelope. The wines represent the essence of his creativity and purpose. In addition, they are a paradox where elegance and gentleness are often neatly offset with density and power.
Clearly Peter Fraser looked at High Sands Grenache as a work in progress. And while not all releases have hit the high mark, all of them possess a presence; each reflecting great care and attention to detail.
Over the last seven or eight years, Yangarra High Sands Grenache (first vintage 2005) has become widely regarded (by observers of all kinds) as a benchmark and reference McLaren Vale Grenache. When I included the 2019 vintage in The Australian Ark’s Canon of Australian Wine it was because of its profound impact. It will always be remembered as one of Australia’s landmark/ historic wines. The start of something special.
2019 Yangarra High Sands Grenache, McLaren Vale, South Australia
Winemaker Peter Fraser’s 2019 High Sands Grenache epitomises the confluence of innovation, modernity, tradition, technical proficiency, and ambition. Yangarra’s superb biodynamically farmed, 1946-planted grenache vineyard, combined with natural vinification with 50% whole-bunch berries and 11 months maturation in large format oak and ceramic egg, results in a highly individual wine that offers both classicism and the avant-garde in every sip, as well as representing the brilliant fine-wine vision of Yangarra’s American owner, Barbara Banke, of Jackson Family Wines. She has invested in many important vineyards around the world in Oregon’s Willamette Valley, France, Italy, Chile, and South Africa. Yangarra High Sands Grenache represents a fine-wine aesthetic that embraces the hopes and aspirations of these times. Sustainability, conservation, nurture, craftsmanship, collaboration, precision, risk, and enthusiasm are the underlying themes that make this release a standout wine. 2019 Yangarra High Sands Grenache received significant critical acclaim at release. It was celebrated for its individuality, regional presence and potential status as one of the great grenache labels in the world. The wine highlights the genius of vineyard site, the virtuosity of viticulturalist Michael Lane’s vineyard management and Peter Fraser’s empathetic winemaking techniques. Voluminous yet elegantly balanced the 2019 High Sands was typified by pure red and blueberry fruits, superb mid-palate viscosity and plentiful fine chalky/ sandy tannins. It finished whiplash firm with seductive sweet fruit notes. Although perhaps not a wine of long-term endurance in the cellar, it marked the arrival of ultra-fine Australian grenache as a force to be reckoned with.
Looking back through the lens of the last 15 vintages, one can see the evolution of this label. Based on 1946-plantings, the first releases from 2005 onwards (2005-2009 not tasted) were reflective of winemaking conventions at the time. From memory the High Sands vintages from 2010 to 2013 looked much better during their early years but have evolved into average medium bodied reds with sufficient freshness and richness. Most of them are beginning to dry out. Typically, these wines were matured in one- and two-year-old Franch oak for around 15-18 months, sometimes longer.
By 2014 High Sands Grenache was beginning to show its class, thanks to vineyard management practices and refined techniques in the winery, especially the reduction of barrel maturation to under a year and the introduction of large, seasoned oak maturation vessels (foudres and puncheons) and ceramic/ sandstone eggs. Meanwhile the transition to organic and biodynamic practices in the vineyard have profoundly improved quality of the fruit. 2019 High Sands Grenache is a transformative vintage and this can clearly be seen by the way it has evolved.
Ultimately this tasting showed a fascinating work in progress and a real desire to elevate the experience even further by experimentation and winemaking refinements. The introduction of around 50% whole-bunch fermentation and individual one tonne/ batch fermenters has further improved aromatic complexity while adding to the textural impact.
Yangarra High Sands represents the leading edge of McLaren Vale Grenache. It veers away from the generous fruit driven styles commonly found in the region, to a more refined and elegant style where the fruit is underpinned by a lacy texture and mineral quality. I don’t think the wines are proven long term cellaring prospects quite yet, but the style does benefit a few years of bottle age to show completeness. Nonetheless High Sands Grenache is fully deserving of praise as it epitomises the best in sustainable farming, collaborative teamwork and creative thinking.
2010 Yangarra High Sands Grenache, McLaren Vale – South Australia
Medium crimson. Attractive aged wax polish, tobacco leaf aromas with underlying red fruits. Inky deep red cherry, dark plum, tobacco leaf, tawny flavours, fine slinky textures, very good mid palate volume and fresh well integrated acidity. Crunchy/ minerally finish. At its peak of development but will probably hold. Drink now – for a while. 14.5% alc 92 points
2011 Yangarra High Sands Grenache, McLaren Vale – South Australia
Light medium crimson. Lifted red cherry, stone fruit, roasted walnut aromas with hints of tobacco. Supple red cherry, roasted walnut, hint chocolaty flavours, fine looseknit chalky al-dente tannins and fresh long persistent acidity. Bittersweet finish with drying/ lacy textures. Very minerally. Drink now – 2038 14.5% 91 points
2012 Yangarra High Sands Grenache, McLaren Vale – South Australia
Medium crimson. Advanced dark plum, hint polished leather aromas with bitter dark chocolate notes. Concentrated slightly soupy textured wine with ample dark cherry dark plum, chinotto, touch leathery flavours, fine sinewy textures and pronounced acidity. Lacy/ chocolaty plume at the finish. The fruit is dominated by the structure but still drinking well. Drink now – soon. 14% alc 92 points
2013 Yangarra High Sands Grenache, McLaren Vale – South Australia
Medium deep crimson. Graphite, bitter chocolate, oil skin aromas over red plum, cranberry notes. Supple and fleshy with ample bitter chocolate, graphite, lead pencil notes, fine chalky firm tannins and well-integrated acidity. Leafy bitter finish. 14.8% alc 90 points
2014 Yangarra High Sands Grenache, McLaren Vale – South Australia
Medium crimson. Fresh musky red plum, hint dark chocolate aromas and underlying roasted walnut notes. Generous, juicy and supple with attractive red plum, strawberry, hint dark chocolate/ leafy flavours, fine al dente lacy firm hint ferruginous tannins, very good inky density and fresh well integrated crunchy acidity. A hint of star anise. The first to show the vineyard class. Drink now – 2042 14.5% alc 95 points
2015 Yangarra High Sands Grenache, McLaren Vale – South Australia
Medium crimson. Fragrant red cherry, red plum, hint raspberry, brambly aromas with hints of dark chocolate. Richly concentrated, but slightly soupy with amole red and dark berry fruits, fine looseknit chocolaty textures and fresh long mineral acidity. Finishes grippy/ leafy firm with juicy fruit notes. Drink now – 2040 14.5% alc 93+ points
2016 Yangarra High Sands Grenache, McLaren Vale – South Australia
Medium crimson. Roasted walnut, inky graphite aromas over red cherry, cola notes. Inky and sweet fruited with developed red cherry, chinotto, bitter dark chocolate flavours and fine looseknit chalky tannins. Very good mid palate richness and viscosity. Drink now – 2045 14.5% alc 95+ points
2017 Yangarra High Sands Grenache, McLaren Vale – South Australia
Medium crimson. Attractive red cherry strawberry herb garden aromas with hint roasted walnut hazelnut notes. Lovley pure red cherry, strawberry fruits, underlying toasty, roasted hazelnut, chinotto notes, fine slinky textures and fresh long mineral acidity. Surprisingly youthful and beautifully balanced with gentle vigour, density and length. Not renowned as a great vintage, A cool year. Outstanding. Drink now - 2042 14.5% alc 95 Points
2018 Yangarra High Sands Grenache, McLaren Vale – South Australia
Medium crimson. Graphite, mushroom, truffle-like aromas with red plum, touch fig fruit. Generous, almost chocolaty in texture with ample red plum, maraschino cherry, fig flavours, fine looseknit tannins and underlying savoury notes, Finishes minerally/ chalky and long. A touch of sweetness at the finish. Drink now – 2040 14.0 % alc 94+ points
2019 Yangarra High Sands Grenache, McLaren Vale – South Australia
Light medium crimson. Attractive red cherry pastille, hint truffle aromas with flint cola notes. Supple and lacy with red cherry, strawberry, blueberry fruits, fine looseknit chalky, hint ferruginous tannins, some mid palate viscosity and underlying savoury, earthy notes. Finishes chalky firm and minerally with the fruit reappearing sweet and pure. Drink now – 2042 14.5% alc 97 points (puncheons introduced)
2020 Yangarra High Sands Grenache, McLaren Vale – South Australia
Medium crimson. Fragrant red cherry strawberry, hint chinotto aromas with underlying roasted walnut notes. Well concentrated and classical in structure with ample strawberry, chinotto, hint Americano flavours, fine chalky textures and underlying sesame, graphite notes. Finishes minerally and long with al dente/ hint liquorice notes. Very complete with complexity and freshness giving vinosity and mineral length. Drink now – 2045 14.5% alc 96 points (1 tonne fermenters – block by block picking)
2021 Yangarra High Sands Grenache, McLaren Vale – South Australia
Medium crimson. Attractive red cherry, red plum, cola, hint stone fruit aromas with mineral notes. Generous inky red cherry pastille, strawberry, red plum fruits, lovely mid palate richness/ volume, slinky with a hint of al dente tannins. Builds firm and tight at the finish. A twang of ferruginous tannins. Drink now - 2045 14.5% 95 points
2022 Yangarra High Sands Grenache, McLaren Vale – South Australia
Light medium crimson. Pure red cherry, strawberry, chinotto aromas with herb garden notes. Almost Burgundian in character with ample strawberry red cherry fruits. Supple lacy textures, superb mid palate viscosity and underlying vanilla hint mocha notes. Slinky at the finish with mineral notes. Lovely wine Drink now – 2045 14.5% alc 98 points
2023 Yangarra High Sands Grenache, McLaren Vale – South Australia
Light medium crimson. Herb garden red cherry touch graphite aromas with some sweet fruit notes. Supple and mouth filling with red cherry pastille, herb notes, fine looseknit chalky touch graphite structure and pronounced long acidity. Refined and minerally but will never get better than this. Drink now or keep to taste. 13.5% alc 93 points
2024 Yangarra High Sands Grenache, McLaren Vale – South Australia
Light medium crimson. Pure red cherry marzipan aromas with hints of herb garden. Lovely concentrated red cherry, strawberry, herb, touch carbonic notes, underlying marzipan notes, fine slinky/ graphite textures and fresh long minerally acidity. Very good density and torque while showing attractive ripe fruit. 13.5% alc 96+ points