Bijou: a voice for change in France

Written By Angus Hughson

Words by Jeni Port

It goes without saying that tradition runs deep in French winemaking.

Some traditions are rightly celebrated, while others are causing frustration in a changing world.

The recent decision by Chateau Lafleur to quit the Bordeaux appellation system in order to be allowed the flexibility to adapt to climate change, is one of the more high-profile examples. Bijou, a producer based in the South of France with a rising international profile in 50 countries, is also making its own way, working largely outside the appellation system and achieving some significant results.

The company, founded in 2013 by Chris Ellis, a former wine export director to a leading French wine producer, embraces the creative freedom to take a more modern approach to French winemaking, one that employs everything from varietal labelling to sustainable wine production to gender equality.

The Bijou story started in Cabrières AOC, an appellation set on ancient volcanic soils and naturally low yields, which inspired the focus on sustainability from the beginning. Next came the move to Coteaux de Bézieres in 2018, an area less than 10km from the Mediterranean, where cooling sea breezes blow and where nearby oyster farms are said to enrich the soils with mineral deposits. This is the basis for some award-winning rosés led by Le Bijou de Sophie Valrose rosé.

The decision to go higher in altitude (450-500m) in 2021 and expanding west to the Haute Vallée de l’Aude, has produced yields of quality chardonnay and pinot noir.

“This evolution has led to wines like Vestige de Bijou chardonnay, recently earning 95 points (gold) from Decanter – a proud moment that affirmed our belief in the incredible potential of southern French terroirs,” says Emily Phillips, Head of Brand & Marketing at Bijou. “The wide diurnal range and stony, clay-limestone soils encourage deep, healthy root systems which bring elegance, structure and refreshing acidity to the wines, qualities rarely associated with these two noble varieties from the Southern France until now.”

While consumers in Australia are well-used to buying wines based on grape variety, it is not common in France, where appellation information features on labels.   This is something Bijou believes needs to change.

“We’ve found that consumers increasingly tend to shop by varietal rather than appellation, and we believe that’s an important way to help them connect with French wines more easily,” says Phillips. Working outside the system, she argues, gives Bijou winemakers greater freedom to collaborate with a range of growers across the Languedoc and Provence, experiment with blends and prioritise sustainable viticulture. “Ultimately, we are passionate about moving French wine into the 21st Century whilst celebrating the distinct regions.”

This move also sees Bijou adopting changes to another French wine tradition, one that has too often been out of step with the rest of the wine world.

“The wine industry as a whole has a long way to go when it comes to (gender) equality and representation,” says Emily Phillips.

Well into the 1970s, women employed in the French wine industry were not allowed to enter wineries when they were menstruating for fear of “spoiling” the wines. Today, more than half of the Bijou team are women, including one of the company’s partner head winemakers and head viticulturists. Bijou’s flagship Sophie Valrose range of wines is named in honour the French women who played a largely forgotten role in the Southern French vineyards throughout the 19th and 20th centuries.

“Women were considered inferior in the vineyards,” says Phillips, “often paid half as much as men and excluded from skilled roles. During this time, a real woman named Anastasie (Vergnes) was a vineyard worker in Languedoc-Roussillon who fought for the rights of her fellow female workers, demanding change and equality.”

Today, the fight continues, but we are seeing steps forward, with more women entering the French wine industry, taking on leadership roles and “reshaping” the wine conversation.

Bijou puts its money into its philosophy by actively supporting awards, events, mentor programmes and more to create more opportunities and visibility for women across the French wine industry and beyond.

“We hope to play a small part in moving things forward.”

Bijou Vestige Chardonnay Limoux 2023

Pristine, restrained, Chardonnay, a different interpretation of Chardonnay from the south of France. Vestige hails from Limoux, a high, cool region and it shows with lively aromas in citrus, grapefruit, lemon zest, pith and apple with hints of preserved lemon. Well composed and smoothly textured, it runs long on bright, tangy acidity. Savoury almond and preserved lemon join gentle vanillin spice and lees-defined nougat helping to accentuate the wine’s citrus-based intensity and energy. Shows lovely poise and balance.

93pts
Drink: 2025-2030

Bijou Terre de Providence Chardonnay 2023

As sunny and bright as its home in the south of France. There is definitely a sunny disposition to this wine. White peach, nectarine, citrus, flint and light spice light up the aroma. A well-captured expression of fruit-driven chardonnay, it arrives on the palate led by lemon citrus, spice, almond skin notes and a splash of herbs and, with its smooth texture, it is very much ready to be enjoyed. 

90pts
Drink: 2025-2028

Bijou Terre de Providence Rosé 2024

A blend of grenache and syrah and sourced from vineyards in the foothills of the Montagne Noire (Black Mountain) range in central southern France. Exudes delicacy, elegance and great florals. Pale pink blush – looks good in the clear bottle and the glass.  Aromas of dusty, wild strawberries, cherries, spring blossom, peony, acacia, spice with a tantalising hint of confection. What you smell on the bouquet is delivered bright and perky on the palate. This is a rosé very much in the strawberry-and-cream style – dusty, earthy, dry – and beautifully textured. Flows evenly, engagingly, finishing with a sweet confection note.

92pts
Drink: 2025-2029

Bijou Le Bijou de Sophie Valrose Rosé Coteaux de Beziers 2024

Minimal skin contact during winemaking presents Sophie Valrose in super pale blush hues. A cool fermentation in stainless steel does the rest in melding four grape varieties – cinsault, grenache, caladoc and syrah – into a finely etched, delicately flavoured young rosé. Aromas of cherry, strawberry, citrus, earth, light spice and confection notes. Dry as a bone, firm in bright acidity and nicely textured, it offers an elegant rosé expression highlighting summer berries and citrus to the fore with florals, spice, confection and a hint of marzipan to close. It’s one of the more delicate rosés going, so don’t over chill.

93pts
Drink: 2025-2029

Bijou Terre de Providence Pinot Noir 2024

A summery pinot noir, easy to drink and to get to know. Youthful purple in colour. Bright and lifted in a fragrance of crushed herbs, rose petal, rosehip, leaf, cherry, red plum and strawberry. Aromatics shine here. The palate is upbeat with notes of sour cherry amid the berries, spice and herbs. Rolls through on fleshy, fine tannins. Drink young.

89pts
Drink: 2025-2028

Angus Hughson
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