Beresford turns 40
By Jeni Port
This year, as Beresford Estate celebrates its 40th birthday it is no doubt a time for reflection on not only the past but the future. The McLaren Vale winery secured an early reputation for quality grenache and shiraz under experienced winemaker and founder, Rob Dundon.
That remains true today under the Bickford Group ownership with old bush vine grenache and established shiraz vines at the core of the producer’s Blewitt Springs vineyard portfolio. “Shiraz will always remain McLaren Vale’s dominant variety in both volume and value, regardless of shifting consumption trends,” notes assistant brand manager, Nan Zhou. “That said, bush vine grenache has certainly stepped into the spotlight in recent years. Strong recognition through wine shows and critical acclaim has elevated its profile, particularly old vine grenache from sub-regions like Blewitt Springs and Clarendon.” The distinctive Blewitt Springs deep, free-draining sandy soils are possibly more celebrated today than ever before, prompting greater interest in both the sub-region and the grape.
As to the future, a drier, warmer climate has led Beresford under winemakers Chad Smith and Deanne Clark to explore those grape varieties best suited to holding their acidity in dry, warm conditions. This is where fiano, in particular, shines. The southern Italian grape variety proved itself early and has now called the Vale home for 22 years. Winemakers Smith and Clark favour extended time on lees post fermentation in stainless steel over the use of oak, and it helps show case the grape’s smooth, textural appeal while adding a touch of complexity.
The region’s Mediterranean climate is well-suited to southern Med grapes such as grillo (which calls Sicily home) and pecorino (from Central Italy). These new additions to the Beresford stable, planted in 2020, are among an exciting bunch of newbies that remain small batch projects. And while they are now an integral part of the McLaren Vale wine scene, they aren’t about to replace the power and beauty of its shiraz and grenache any time soon.
As for shiraz? Vale shiraz can be affordable, immediately bright and accessible, offering some incredible value for money, but - and it’s a big BUT - it can also age magnificently. Remember that! This is highlighted beautifully in the decision of Beresford to release an aged shiraz under its flagship Grand Reserve label. The term “reserve” is well and truly deserved. The 2017 Grand Reserve is simply a stunning wine that has matured nobly in the bottle with all the hallmarks of a great Vale shiraz, not only boasting a warm velvety richness but check out that poise.
Beresford McLaren Vale Classic Shiraz 2022
Raise a glass and take in a scent that immediately transports you to the Vale, sitting on a deck and taking in the fragrance of native bush, briar, earth, wild sage and florals. It’s so inviting, more so because it comes alongside ripe black fruits, plum and anise spices. Probably announces its origins even before the first sniff with its striking dark-purple colour. This is a shiraz big on flavour, but it is contained and shaped by some pretty fleshy, confident tannins and the result is a smooth-flowing, elegant youngster. Time in French and American oak – 14-16 months – plays a role and is noted (dusty cacao, toasty), but it is nicely integrated. There’s a lot going on for the relatively tiny price. Great value with immediate drinking enjoyment written all over it.
91pts
Bottle Price: $18
Drink: 2025-2028
Beresford McLaren Vale Estate Shiraz 2022
By any measure, the 2022 season was considered outstanding, and so in a year like that, a winemaker makes hay, or, in this instance, makes a serious wine intended for some serious ageing. Deep, dark purple, almost impenetrable in colour. The scent is complex mixing the savoury with the berry sweet with boot polish, new leather, earth, aniseed, fennel seed, black liquorice, black fruits and dark spices. Comes at you chocolatey-rich, bold and firm with sweet black fruits, loganberry, smoky toasty oak, spice and herbs with subtle hints of game wrapped in thick ribbons of tannin. It’s a dense wine, complex and yet approachable but, just wait, the best is still yet to come with time.
92pts
Bottle Price: $45
Drink: 2025-2036
Beresford McLaren Vale Grand Reserve Shiraz 2017
Oozes class. Shows McLaren Vale shiraz at its best; both unctuous and charming. Arrives in dense, deepest purple hues and bursting in Vale spice-driven aromatics, lifted in sweet florals, Middle Eastern spices, well-ripened plum, blackberry, cassis, blackstrap liquorice and chocolate. It sets its course early, there is ripeness and depth with precise fine tannins calling the tune and carrying the wine long. And there is balance. Plum, dark cherry and blackberry fruits are laced in spice – cinnamon, allspice, nutmeg – briar, Aussie bush and red earth with an underlying touch of savouriness. This is now eight years young, a wine in its prime and yet still with so much time still up its sleeve. It is still very much capable of going further, showing more, revealing an enduring beauty.
96pts
Bottle Price: $120
Drink: 2025-2034
Beresford McLaren Vale Emblem Fiano 2024
McLaren Vale winemakers are now in the midst of a serious love affair with fiano. The southern Italian grape variety feels the same way and reciprocates with wines that are spicy, textural and fresh, all at the same time. Some lovely dusty citrussy florals on the aroma of this wine with apple, citrus, white peach and gentle spice. A smooth texture is integral to this wine’s enjoyment, the result of time on lees post-fermentation and highlighting rich flavour concentration. Peach, melon, citrus come together with nougat spice and a sweet lemon pastille note to close with juicy acidity holding it fresh. Impressive length.
92pts
Bottle Price: $25
Drink: 2024-2030
Beresford Adelaide Hills Emblem Pinot Noir 2024
So youthful, so fresh, so bright! Brings an upbeat nouveau style to Adelaide Hills pinot noir and it simply laps it up. Sour cherry, cranberry, pomegranate and herbal aromas – sappy and highly perfumed. The palate is crisp and finely tannin-led with a real fresh-cut cherry infusion running alongside red fruits, light florals, spice and sinewy herbal notes. Fruit was sourced from three high-altitude Adelaide Hills sites (up to 430m) and it shows with a clean, brisk drive. It’s got a lithe and juicy palate delivering plenty of crunch. Maturation in seasoned oak for a short period delivers good, smooth integration. Strawberry and cherry build through to a dry finish. Delicious!
91pts
Bottle Price: $35
Drink: 2025-2030