Tolpuddle

Written By Angus Hughson

V2024 Tolpuddle

Crisis. What Crisis? Tolpuddle’s latest releases of their exemplary Chardonnay and Pinot Noir wines highlight that not all wine companies are having a hard time. Through outstanding skills and governance, together with a brilliant on-the-ground team around Australia and beyond, Tolpuddle has created a demand for its wines that well- exceed supply.

According to Mathilda Hill-Smith, the Tolpuddle waitlist far outweighs the amount of wine they produce. This is not unique, with most wineries in this advantageous position, keeping their heads down and staying away from the endless doom and gloom on social media channels etc. It is true that wine is in steady decline, but the statistics don’t really capture the nuances and opportunities within the wine market. While not unique, the Toldpuddle story is a masterclass in fine wine production and marketing. It shows that doing things properly and building a brand based on quality and perceived value will lead to a sustainable and rewarding future.

Ambitions to become one of Australia’s ‘grand cru’ wine producers are probably close to realisation already within the domestic market, but it will still take time to crack the euro-snobbery of the international fine wine scene. All the same Tolpuddle has reached into some interesting market niches including one of the most exclusive wine clubs in the world, while achieving excellent results on the international wine circuit.

Although priced at $110 bottle (cellar door prices), the team has resisted the temptation of raising prices to meet the milieu of cult type bottlings. The simplicity, authenticity and relatability of Tolpuddle bring a feeling of ‘less is more.’ Meanwhile Tolpuddle is in a period of generational succession and transition. While Michael Hill Smith MW and Martin Shaw remain ‘noisily’ involved, the next generation in the form of Mathilda Hill Smith and joint managing directors Adam Wadewitz and David Lemire MW, will no doubt lead to many more successes to come. The arrival of Georgie Jacobs (ex Oakridge) as the estate’s new vineyard manager and the charismatic hospitality of Pip Anderson at the vineyard’s new tasting room, highlight the substantial depth and talent of the Tolpuddle team. Fully engaged with stakeholders within the wine trade, particularly sommeliers, restaurateurs and independent retailers, Tolpuddle represents the very best of Australian fine wine ideals. 

When drinking Tolpuddle Vineyard Chardonnay or Pinot Noir, and notwithstanding vintage variation, I have always sensed the meticulous attention to detail, purity of fruit and generosity of spirit behind the wines. This consistently evocative voice of place is the essence of an exceptional vineyard site.

2024 Tolpuddle Vineyard Chardonnay, Coal River Valley - Tasmania

Pale colour. Beautiful pure grapefruit, verbena, grilled nut aromas with honey/ marzipan, touch lanolin notes. Pure supple and minerally with fresh grapefruit, lemon curd, marzipan flavors, slippery/ saline notes on the mid-palate and high-pitched crisp acidity.  Al dente finish with superb mineral length. Very good volume and richness of flavour while possessing tension and vigour. Should age beautifully well if one dares to wait. Drink now - 2038 13% alc 96 points

2024 Tolpuddle Vineyard Pinot Noir, Coal River Valley - Tasmania

Medium colour. Intense pure dark cherry, chinotto, hint ginger touch bush garrigue aromas. Generously concentrated, sinuous and textured palate with dark cherry, strawberry pastille, chinotto flavours, fine slinky, hint grippy/ leafy tannins, and underlying ginger, roasted almond notes. Finishes minerally and long. Lovely purity, layered richness and vinosity. 13.5% alc Drink now – 2036 97 points

 

V24 Tolpuddle

2023 Tolpuddle Vineyard Chardonnay, Coal River Valley - Tasmania

Pale colour. Intense and fresh ripe nectarine, white peach aromas with honey/ marzipan notes. Richly flavoured and generous wine with ample stonefruit, grilled nut notes, fine chalky textures, lovely creamy mid-palate and fresh long mineral acidity. A hint of butterscotch at the finish. Delicious and expressive chardonnay with a retro-modern taste that will not disappoint. Drink now – 2027 13.5% alc 96 points

 

2023 Tolpuddle Vineyard Pinot Noir, Coal River Valley - Tasmania

Medium deep. Lovely pure dark cherry, negroni, herb garden, star anise aromas with hints of marzipan. Sweet supple dark cherry pastille, strawberry fruits, loose knit lacy/ al dente textures, lovely mid palate volume and underlying marzipan roasted chestnut/ herb garden notes. Sappy notes build up to the finish.This is an exceptionally enjoyable and characterful wine, highlighting a classic vineyard site and cracking good winemaking. Will keep and develop, but drink now or soon. 13.5% 13.5% alc 97 points

Angus Hughson
Next

ST AGNES XOs