Moss Wood

Written By Angus Hughson

2023 Moss Wood Cabernet Sauvignon

Moss Wood Cabernet Sauvignon is regarded as one of Margaret River’s most collectible wines with a track record of 50 vintages and a reputation for long-term aging. As a former wine auctioneer, I was witness to its prominent rise in the secondary wine market and signed off its grade as Exceptional in Langton’s Classification. During my entire time at Langton’s, and Rushton’s before that, Moss Wood Cabernet Sauvignon has been (and still is) one of the most highly regarded labels in the secondary wine market.

As a live wine auctioneer, I was witness to the depth of interest and volume of demand for decades. Its success along with other ‘neighbouring’ wineries (like Cullen, Howard Park, Leeuwin Estate etc) allowed us to create The Great Wine Estates of Western Australia auction series. However my successors have since downgraded Langton’s Classification of Australian Wine into a two-tier system and in doing so have relegated Moss Wood Cabernet Sauvignon to its lower tier – a pelaton of 79 Langton’s Classified wines. Although Langton’s might defend its position by citing a spreadsheet of auction price realisations, I think the omission of Moss Wood Cabernet Sauvignon in Langton’s Classification Edition 8 represents a monumental and diminishing flaw.

The 2023 Moss Wood Cabernet Sauvignon highlights the exceptional quality of vineyard site, 51 vintages of winemaking excellence and a body of work that began with Bill and Sandra Pannell and was continued with exceptional custodianship by Keith and Clare Mugford. This classical Margaret River cabernet sauvignon genuinely belongs to an Australian First Growth tradition that is thankfully recognised by many wine collectors around the country and beyond.

2023 Moss Wood Cabernet Sauvignon, Margaret River – Western Australia

Deep crimson. Intense blackcurrant, espresso, roasted chestnut aromas with hints of black olive/ spice. Inky deep and generously concentrated with ample cassis, black cherry, mocha flavours, superb roasted chestnut/ marzipan notes, and classical fine-grained tannins. Builds up claret/ cedar firm with a lovely pure black currant plume. The oak is still dominant but offset perfectly against the fruit. Give it a few years and this wine will show its exceptional class. 92% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Cabernet Franc, 4% Petit Verdot. Matured in French oak barriques (15% new). Drink 2029 – 2048+ 14% alc 98+ points

2026 Moss Wood Ribbon Vale Release

2025 Moss Wood Ribbon Vale Chardonnay, Margaret River – Western Australia

Pale colour. Fresh tropical fruit, lemon curd, grapefruit aromas with underlying cashew nut, vanilla notes. Well concentrated lemon curd, grapefruit, hint pineapple fruits, fine lacy touch al dente textures and some underlying marzipan, vanilla notes. Finishes crisp and fruity. A very pleasing style. At the middle of fermentation, the wine was racked into 228-litre French oak barriques (32% new), to complete alcoholic and malolactic fermentation. Nine months in oak for around nine months. Drink now – 2032 14% alc 94 points

2025 Moss Wood Ribbon Vale Elsa, Margaret River – Western Australia

Pale colour. Very attractive waxy, lemon curd, honey aromas with hints marzipan. Supple and minerally with ample waxy, lemon curd, tonic water, touch leafy flavours, looseknit chalky textures, lovely mid-palate volume and fresh long crisp acidity. Some aniseed notes at the finish. Ready to drink. 90% Sauvignon Blanc, 10% Semillon. Nine months maturation in new (11%) and seasoned oak. Drink now – 2032 14% alc 93 points

2023 Moss Wood Ribbon Vale Cabernet Sauvignon, Margaret River – Western Australia

Medium deep crimson. Attractive cassis, blackberry pastille. dark chocolate aromas with some cedar notes. Inky deep with abundant blackcurrant, blackberry fruits, underlying vanilla, roasted chestnut notes, fine grainy – touch al dente tannins and fresh long tangy acidity. Finishes velvety firm and juicy. Still elemental but lovely richness and volume. Drink 2028 – 2045 13.5% alc 95 points

2023 Moss Wood Ribbon Vale Merlot, Margaret River – Western Australia

Medium deep crimson. Fresh dark plum, redcurrant, cedar, black olive aromas and flavours with herb garden/ star anise notes. A core of sweet fruit with underlying cedar/ fine grainy tannins and hints of vanilla oak. Finishes grippy firm with some sappy notes. Very buoyant and expressive but probably best to drink in the medium term, Drink now – 2042 14% alc 93 points

2023 Moss Wood Cabernet Sauvignon, Margaret River – Western Australia

Deep crimson. Intense blackcurrant, espresso, roasted chestnut aromas with hints of black olive/ spice. Inky deep and generously concentrated with ample cassis, black cherry, mocha flavours, superb roasted chestnut/ marzipan notes, and classical fine-grained tannins. Builds up claret/ cedar firm with lovely pure black fruits. The oak is still dominant but give a few years and this wine will show its exceptional class. Drink 2029 – 2048+ 14% alc 97+ points

2025 Moss Wood Release

The classic 2022 Moss Wood Cabernet Sauvignon is the estate’s 50th anniversary release. Although wet weather harangued Margaret River all the way up to November, hot dry weather and long sunshine hours arrived in December. Cooler conditions in autumn led to a high quality but smaller than average crop. The wine is beautifully balanced and typical of the Moss Wood style. While the 1973 Moss Wood Cabernet Sauvignon could set you back around $8000 (I sold a bottle for around $7000 at a Great Estates auction nearly 20 years ago) this is $161.11 at Cellar Door. The 2024 Chardonnay and Elsa are contemporary Margaret River styles that show the versatility of grape varieties.

2024 Moss Wood Elsa, Wilyabrup, Margaret River – Western Australia

Pale colour. Fresh grapefruit, lemon curd, tonic aromas with hints of marzipan/ grilled nuts. Well-concentrated with ample grapefruit, lemon pastille fruits, underlying tonic water notes, fine bittersweet textures and fresh indelible acidity. Refreshingly minerally at the finish. Drink now – 2032 14% alc 95 points

2024 Moss Wood Ribbon Vale Chardonnay, Wilyabrup, Margaret River – Western Australia

Pale colour. Intense lemon curd, grapefruit, tropical fruit aromas with ginger/ hint vanilla notes. Generous and creamy with ample lemon glacé, grapefruit, rock melon flavours, fine slinky touch grippy textures, marvellous viscosity and underlying roasted almond, vanilla notes. Finishes bittersweet and minerally. Lovely regional presence and vinosity. Brilliant wine. Drink now – 2030 14% alc 96 points

2022 Moss Wood Cabernet Sauvignon, Wilyabrup, Margaret River – Western Australia

Medium deep crimson. Attractive cassis, truffle, vanilla aromas with hints of mocha/ cedar. Inky deep with fresh blackcurrant vanilla, espresso flavours, fine grainy tannins and well-integrated vanilla/ marzipan notes. Finishes chalky and long with chinotto and aniseed notes. A classic Moss Wood vintage with lovely richness, definition and mineral length. Should last the distance. A lovely 50th anniversary wine. 94% cabernet sauvignon 4% cabernet franc 2% petit verdot. Drink 2028 – 2035 14% alc 97 points

Angus Hughson
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