Cape Mentelle

Written By Angus Hughson

Cape Mentelle Cabernet Sauvignon – Margaret River – Vertical Tasting

To coincide with its annual cabernet tasting in November, Chief Winemaker and Viticulturalist David Moulton and his team put on a five-decade vertical of Cape Mentelle Cabernet Sauvignon through the prism of five vintages (1983, 1993, 2003, 2013, 2023) . While compact and to the point, it showed the development of style, aided by improved vineyard management and winemaking techniques. Owned by drinks behemoth Endeavour Group, the winemaking team has remained intact, resulting in continuity and clear direction. With a new management team apparently about to overhaul the faltering ASX listed organisation (EDV), recent capital expenditure will probably grind to a halt.

Since its acquisition from LVMH, the winery has been fine-tuned to appeal to a wider audience. For instance, it is possible to drink a Cape Mentelle18 Hectare Chardonnay at $25 a bottle. The longstanding early drinking Cape Mentelle Trinders Cabernet Merlot releases have also traditionally been an entry points into the whole Margaret River Cabernet category (approx $35 a bottle).

But flagship wine Cape Mentelle Cabernet Sauvignon (now under the Heritage label) has enjoyed a longstanding presence on the secondary wine market. With its currency guaranteed through its association with Dan Murphy’s and Langton’s it is not surprising that it is still included in this benchmark listing. That aside, Cape Mentelle Cabernet Sauvignon represents an important part of Margaret River’s history as it really did put the region on the map with the back-to-back Jimmy Watson Trophy winning 1982 & 1983 vintages.

These days the winemaking team at Cape Mentelle is headed up by the highly likeable and enlightened all-rounder David Moulton, a locally trained winemaker and viticulturalist with over 20-years’ experience in the field. His natural leadership qualities are obvious. In addition, he is quick to acknowledge the contribution of his team whenever there is a chance. His senior winemaker Coralie Lewis is praised for her dedication and skills, while the viticultural team are referenced when talking about wine quality and purpose. Being at the far-flung edges of the EDV empire, Cape Mentelle is probably divorced from the realpolitik of its corporate owners. Seemingly, it remains more-or-less an independent winery which is what its long-term customers and its founders would probably want.

Cape Mentelle is an historic Margaret River brand and quite rightly deserves to be recognised as one of the region’s more progressive wineries. This cabernet tasting highlights the advance in winemaking – away from the dense grippy claret of yesteryear to a more refined elegant, buoyant and sinuous style. While some of this is related to the fashionable concepts of today, winemakers have a much better understanding of tannin management. This will probably lead to wines that show better aging potential than ever before.

1983 Cape Mentelle Cabernet Sauvignon, Margaret River – Western Australia

Medium deep crimson. Black olive, cedar aromas with some dark cassis fruits. Inky deep generous wine with black olive, creosote, black sour cherry flavours, fine grainy touch sinewy tannins, and underlying cedar notes. Firm claret finish. Bretty but displays claret shape with attractive density and torque. Flawed yet still showing the energy, density and torque that made it stand out over 40 years ago at the Melbourne Wine Show. Jimmy Watson Trophy (1984). While not a high scoring wine, it remains an historic memento of the David Hohnen era. Drink now or keep. 90 points

1993 Cape Mentelle Cabernet Sauvignon, Margaret River – Western Australia

Medium deep crimson. Inky black currant cedar aromas with creosote, roasted walnut notes. Well concentrated blackcurrant cherry stone, dark chocolate, roasted walnut/ sandalwood, cigar box notes, and sinuous grainy tannins. Finishes chocolaty/ soupy with lifted pronounced acidity. Has a sturdy presence but the structure dominates the fruit, Still drinking well though. Drink now – 2035. 92 points

2003 Cape Mentelle Cabernet Sauvignon, Margaret River – Western Australia

Medium deep crimson. Intense blackberry pastille, cedar spice, dark chocolate aromas. Supple and inky deep with inky blackberry fruits, chocolaty firm textures and underlying meaty, graphite, tobacco leaf notes. Builds chocolaty and long with some leafy notes at the finish. An old-fashioned claret style but still showing very good definition and impact. Unmistakably cabernet in character. Drink now – 2038. 94 points

2013 Cape Mentelle Cabernet Sauvignon, Margaret River – Western Australia

Medium deep crimson. Fresh blackcurrant, espresso, dark chocolate aromas with hints of red fruits and cedarwood. Inky blackcurrant pastille, dark plum fruits, slinky firm textures and underlying roasted chestnut notes. Finishes firm and tight. Lovely volume but acidity dominates at the finish. This should keep and develop. Drink now – 2042. 94 points

2023 Cape Mentelle Heritage Cabernet Sauvignon, Margaret River – Western Australia

Medium deep crimson. Fragrant black cherry, hint elderberry, cassis, capsicum aromas with roasted chestnut/ vanilla notes. Buoyant, pure black cherry, elderberry, blackcurrant flavours, very good mid palate volume, fine grained cedary tannins and noticeable vanilla, marzipan notes. Finishes long and minerally with seductive sweet fruit notes. Very good modern style but all the elements are still in parts. Best to keep for a while. 95% cabernet sauvignon, 4% cabernet franc, 1% merlot. Drink 2027 – 2045. 96 points

Angus Hughson
Next

Howard Park