Tahbilk and the Purbrick Family: A 100-year Story of Winemaking

Written By Angus Hughson

When the newly formed ‘Tabilk Vineyard Proprietory’ advertised a request for one million vine cuttings in 1860, the new enterprise became one of the main heroes of Victoria’s fine wine aspirations. Although chaotic at first, the grand plans for the estate, modelled on the scientific thinking of the day, captured the magnificent ambitions and challenges of the Victorian Age.

During the red wine boom of the mid-1870s onwards, Chateau Tahbilk (as it became known in 1877) had become a great success story resulting in excavation work and the construction of new cellars. Every month around 50 hogsheads of robust ferruginous dry red wine was being shipped to the UK. But the arrival of phylloxera (1900), the advent of the First World War(1914-1918) and lack of capital investment saw the estate gradually fall into serious decline. When Chateau Tahbilk was acquired by Australian-born businessman (and later Conservative MP) Reginald Purbrick in 1925, the vineyards and winery were in complete disrepair. Although seemingly purchased for a bargain, the estate needed capital, restoration and new visions. It was really fate and ill-timing that allowed it to carry on as a winemaking enterprise and mixed farm. If Reginald had stayed in Australia for longer, the property may have been subdivided, but other plans eventuated and fortune prevailed.

After the First World War the Australian wine industry had transitioned to predominantly fortified wine production in response to preferential trade arrangements with the UK and an opportunity to compete with cheap fortified wines of Portugal and Spain. Although the estate was acquired a year after the 1924 Export Bounty Act, Chateau Tahbilk was not able to take advantage of this new export opportunity. It neither had the scale or the resources. Seemingly locked in a vacuum, Eric Purbrick drummed up business by selling his table and fortified wines principally to a local market. Its mixed fortunes resulted in little capital investment, and this probably saved the winery from being substantially altered. From a heritage perspective, the historic buildings and 19th Century character of the Tahbilk have remained magnificently intact. There are few estates like this in Australia that evoke a sense of nostalgia, continuity and permanence in this way, despite the irony of neglect between 1900 and 1925.

Historically Tahbilk was modelled on the prevailing 19th century concepts of wine growing and production; typified by the Chateau-style estates on Bordeaux’s left bank. The celebrated scientist Dr Jules Guyot’s Culture de la Vigne et Vinification (culture of the vine and winemaking) was the most influential book on winemaking in the world during the 1860s. It is no coincidence that Tahbilk’s first French winemaker Ludovic Marie translated these theories from French into English for Australian winemakers. Clearly, he would have been inspired by Guyot’s description of the ‘Power of Land Theory’, a French post-revolutionary outlook that shaped the design of wine estates of the time. The layout of Tahbilk’s vineyards, the winery cellars and outbuildings are deeply evocative of this thinking. Model examples of this period include Bordeaux’s Chateau Pontet Canet, Rioja’s Marques de Riscal and Chile’s Erraruiz. These estates were designed to scale up production through new technologies (including steam engines, Mabille-style presses and machine-made bottles) and better flows in handling. The rise of the middle class, increasing demand for wine and faster transport enabled wine estates to expand and flourish as agricultural businesses. But phylloxera (which arrived at Tahbilk in 1900), swings in economic fortunes and the impact of war led to winners and losers. In Australia the Great Depression, which lasted for the most part of the 1930s, led to inertia in the wine industry, lower grape prices and widespread unemployment.

When Eric Purbrick returned to Tahbilk in 1931 with his young family, the estate was in desperate need of revitalisation and new visions for its future. With characteristic energy and foresight, he up-graded equipment and introduced better work practices to improve wine quality. He also entered wine shows and held events at Tahbilk to draw in new customers. Although slow-going at first, these efforts were soon rewarded with increasing customer loyalty and sales. Emerging from the traumas of the Second World War Tahbilk became a centre of Australia’s fine wine culture attracting wine collectors from all around the country. By happenstance it also became closely associated with many of Australia’s most influential political, economic and social networks. Vineyard investment, success in wine shows, representation at Queen Elizabeth’s coronation celebrations, better distribution networks and a growing foundation of returning customers all contributed to a postwar renaissance and Australia-wide fame.

Family succession was inevitable during the 1970s, but it proved to be confronting and challenging. John Purbrick took over the management of the estate from his father in 1975, but the responsibility was overwhelming. Adventurous, independent and wishing for change, it was agreed between father and son in 1978 that John Purbrick would step down yet remain connected with the family business (He would later become chairman of Tahbilk). With brilliant far-sightedness they appointed John’s eldest son Alister Purbrick, aged just 24, to take over as chief winemaker and manager of the winery and business. Roseworthy-trained, family orientated and bursting with ideas and energy, he possessed the character, skilled knowledge and sense of purpose required for a successful family transition. Although Eric Purbrick had been a distant grandfather during Alister’s childhood, this new arrangement led to a close, productive and devoted relationship.

Alister Purbrick’s new appointment as the estate’s chief winemaker was surprising to outside observers. However, the timing, although not obvious at first, also coincided with a renewed confidence in Australian wine, a remarkable period of growth in both domestic and export markets, new innovations and expectations. But the transition from an analogue world to hi-fi technology and then a fast-moving digital environment required a nimble mind, hands on practicality and technical winemaking knowledge. But other immediate challenges lied ahead.

Building trust with the estate’s incumbent head winemaker, a veteran of nearly fifty Tahbilk vintages, was an early hurdle. The brilliantly intuitive and highly competent George Comi had learned his viticultural and winemaking skills through the school of hard knocks and on-the-job engagement. As a consequence, he was naturally suspicious of know-all oenology graduates, new-fangled ideas and change. But through some argy-bargy, a delineation of responsibilities and support from his grandfather, Alister Purbrick embarked on a successful modernisation programme. New winemaking equipment (reflecting dramatically new technologies) and improved techniques in both the vineyard and winery were immediately introduced to upgrade fruit quality, improve hygiene and refine Chateau Tahbilk styles of wines. By the early 1980s the estate was on track and winning a swag of awards at wine shows once again. But Alister Purbrick never lost sight of the rearview mirror nor the efforts of generations before him including the imaginative foresight of Eric Purbrick and the stalwart loyalty of George Comi. A sense of family heritage and purpose have informed decisions and plans.

Business survival was the main challenge of the 1980s; a decade that began optimistically enough but crunched uncomfortably to its end. The 1987 stock market crash, high interest rates and a recession weighed heavily on the balance sheet. Encumbered with unacceptable levels of debt, during this time, Chateau Tahbilk ultimately triumphed over these challenges thanks to a renewed interest in its wines, better local distribution and improved export markets. Although the buildings creak with history and the old vats and ratchet-presses exude a timeless character, spotless cleanliness, the hum of modern machinery and the purity of Tahbilk’s wines are a reminder that this estate has adapted, engaged with new ideas and prevailed. Clearly the estate’s success is also linked to family support. John Purbrick (until his recent death), Alister’s wife Rosalind, their daughter Hayley and his brother Mark Purbrick (a well-known wine expert and business figure) have all played an important role in building a resilient multi-generational family business. When Chateau Tahbilk became known as Tahbilk in 2000, it reflected a feeling that the estate should be referenced to modern Australian sensibilities and ambitions.

Although Tahbilk partially suffered from the spread of phylloxera in the early 1900s, the vineyards planted on American rootstocks in the 1920s and 1930s were now reaching geriatric status in human years (which by the way is 65!). Through epigenetic adaptation and reduced vigour, these vines were now producing exquisite fruit quality of outstanding singularity. In addition to a small patch of surviving 1860 Shiraz vines, Tahbilk boasts significant old vine plantings of marsanne (1927), shiraz (1933, 1936,1937, 1958,1966,1968) and cabernet sauvignon (1948, 1968). Anchored in ancient ferric soils and surrounded by freshwater lagoons, these heirloom vineyards represent the essence of Tahbilk’s timeless character.

The hallowed patch of surviving 1860-planted shiraz (0.522 acres) is a reminder of earlier ambitions and the luck of being planted on an outcrop of very sandy soils, an environment that is not conducive to phylloxera. These centenarian vines stand as a symbol of survival, perseverance and grand dreams. The inaugural release of the 1979 Tahbilk 1860 Shiraz, based on these remnant plantings, emphasized the rarity and majesty of heirloom vinestock. This series has become an important collectible, but diminished production keeps these bottles tightly held. Punishing once-in-100-year black frosts in October 2006 showed how vulnerable these venerable old vines have become to extreme weather. Another harsh Spring could wipe-out the remaining vines. But this horror thought is compensated by the increasing age of vines at Tahbilk and better methods of mitigation viticulture. It is also interesting to note that cuttings were taken from the 1860s-planted vinestock during the 1970s to further add to South Australia’s selection of available material for planting. The Tahbilk Shiraz clone (also known as R6WV28) released after several years of plant breeding in quarantine, is widely planted in the Barossa and is valued for its intense colours, concentration and vigour.

The evolution of the market and new expectations have also impacted on vineyard plantings, especially in the Alister Purbrick era. While the 464-acre vineyard estate is dominated by shiraz, cabernet sauvignon and marsanne of varying ages, the modern story and adaptive spirit of Tahbilk are also captured by the significant plantings of riesling (going back to 1975), chardonnay (1979), cabernet franc (1985) sauvignon blanc (1986) merlot (1989), rousanne (1990) and verdelho (1996). In the last twenty years plantings of pinot gris, viognier, albarino, fiano, prosecco, semillon, mataro (mourvèdre), pinot noir, grenache, tempranillo and montepulciano have added to the mix of varieties. This varied patchwork of vineyard blocks, all within a single estate, highlights the Purbrick family’s sense of tradition and Tahbilk’s contemporary outlook. This balancing act of plantings is reflected in the wide range of wines produced and their fidelity of quality is confirmed by the multiple awards achieved at wine shows and other forums.

Although climate change anxieties are widespread across the world, Dorothea Mackellar’s ‘My Country’, written in 1906, depicts the beauty of the ‘sunburnt’ Australian landscape, ‘a land of sweeping plains,.. of drought and flooding rains.’ When Tahbilk’s vineyards were inundated with flood waters in 2023, it highlighted the challenges of extreme weather patterns in Australia. This rare event caused by unseasonable heavy rainfall damaged the crop and compromised yields. Some of the vineyards were submerged for a short while, but the vines, almost every one of them, survived. Flooding was a common occurrence at Tahbilk prior to the 1891-completion of the Goulburn dam which was constructed to the divert water for inland irrigation purposes. The Goulburn River, Nagambie Lakes and the Tahbilk Lagoon belong to the Murray Darling Basin, a vital element of the region’s environmental health and character. Before colonial settlement these waterways and surrounding landscape were the traditional home of the Taungurung people. They described the stretch of water around the estate as tabilk-tabilk meaning ‘place of many waterholes’. This mass of water profoundly influences the local climate by moderating temperatures during the growing season. Notwithstanding the rare and dreaded Spring frost events, the vineyards are largely protected by the riverine system that warmly hugs the Tahbilk winery and estate during cold nights and days.

Conservation of the physical environment, adaptation of vineyard management techniques and more creative and empathetic winemaking were all becoming priorities during the 1990s. The restoration of the Tabilk Lagoon, the weeding out of invasive species and the promotion of indigenous flora and fauna was foresightful. This project was partially funded by a well-designed eco-tourism plan, which encouraged more visitors to enjoy the unique natural environment and 19th Century aesthetic of Tahbilk. The inauguration of the Len Evans Museum, named in honour of a,  was also a highlight of this period. But it was also the end of an era. As mentioned earlier, Chateau Tahbilk was rebranded Tahbilk in 2000. The was also partially inspired by the increasing protectionism of place names and words by the European Community. While the estate had been first modelled on the French methods of production, outlooks in winemaking and quality had fundamentally changed to a distinct Australian character. A recognisable Tahbilk style of wine had also emerged.

Tahbilk transitioned to a more holistic approach to sustainable wine growing and production during the 2000s. The introduction of organic and regenerative practices highlights a major shift in outlooks and land management over the last twenty years.  Techniques have included under-vine mulching to maintain soil moistures, multi sensor technology to gather micro-climate data, promotion of biodiversity and soil health, better use of natural resources, minimal intervention, a lower footprint through the vineyards and the implementation of a carbon neutral operating environment. 5th generation Hayley Purbrick, who joined the business in 2009, was instrumental in developing ways of reducing and offsetting carbon emissions throughout the estate; a zero emissions target was achieved and accredited in 2013. But the quest for sustainability has no end point. Science, perspectives and discoveries will always create new expectations and techniques to improve the physical and social environment.

Running a wine estate and business in Australia has become extraordinarily complicated with competing priorities and expectations. When the First Families of Wine was inaugurated in 2010, it was envisaged that this group of family-owned wineries would share information, learn new skills and combine efforts to create interest in the cause of family-owned Australian wine. Considering his strong public viewpoints about the dominating influence of corporate winemakers, it is unsurprising that Alister Purbrick was at the centre of this initiative. As the First Families’ inaugural chairman, he has played an important role in building a fine wine narrative based on people, places and heritage. In addition a wine families network has been established that promotes governance, well-planned succession and shared values. With one hundred years of custodianship, and the experience of running a multi-generational family wine business, the Purbrick family is well-placed to understand the challenges and issues ahead.

The Purbrick Family’s 100-year-old ownership of Tahbilk exemplifies the importance of family-continuity, long-term ambitions and resilience. While there are currently many excellent wine brands under corporate ownership, frequent changes of the guard and short-term outlooks have led to many illustrious wineries and well-known labels disappear over the last fifty years. Luck aside, wine families seem to have more courage, stamina and the long-term expectations to defend against economic pressure, adapt and survive. This is largely because a return on investment is not only measured against financial performance, but also against family achievement, the health of the land and a way of life.

Looking back at the origins of Tahbilk and thinking about the industry’s future, I find it fascinating that the challenges ahead remain interconnected to the power of the land. For the most part of the 19th and 20th Centuries, most people believed that agricultural wealth was achieved primarily by ‘taking out’ from the land. This was aided by displacement, colonial ambitions of the British Empire, the development of fertilisers, inorganic applications, tractorisation and overproduction. But thinking has changed for the better and the current generations are far more advanced in their farming and winemaking practices. It is no longer good enough to profit from the land without leaving it in a better place. Over the last twenty years a fundamental pivot has occurred in response to evolving science, technology and community expectations.  Most 21st Century Australian vignerons believe that wealth must be achieved by ‘giving back’ to the land and preserving its health and spirit. Tahbilk is a model of this type of thinking. There is a belief, that protecting the natural environment, improving soils, promoting biodiversity, nurturing mature vineyards intuitively and adapting ways to advance sustainability will lead to nuanced and ultimately better-quality wines.

The Purbrick family’s magnificent 100-year custodianship of Tahbilk highlights a fascinating and imaginative journey across the modern winemaking era in Australia. Over five generations, the estate has established a reputation for making some of Victoria’s highest quality and most impressionable wines. A history of ambition, succession, renewal and adaptation have kept the estate relevant and at the vanguard of Australia’s fine wine aspirations for decades. And this will continue with its sustainable goals and continuing improvements in quality. Singularity of style and authenticity of place are strong identifiable characters of Tahbilk, highlighting the inherent physical character of the estate’s vineyard blocks, its signature winemaking techniques and consistent family engagement. With this spirit of place and optimism for the future, Tahbilk and the Purbrick family fully express the best of Australia’s contemporary fine wine ambitions.

1970 Tahbilk Estate Marsanne, Nagambie Lakes - Victoria

Golden colour. Fresh honey amontillado hint herb garden aromas and flavours, fine lacy textures, very good mid palate volume and well-integrated acidity.  Although sherrified and a touch oxidized, still fresh and delicious like a Jura wine. Fermented in old oak. Drink now. 11% alc 88 points

1982 Tahbilk Estate Marsanne, Nagambie Lakes - Victoria

Bronze brassy colour. Orange marmalade, nectarine aromas with honey notes. Generous and flavourful with ample burnt orange marmalade fruits, attractive mid palate viscosity, fine lacy textures and fresh mineral acidity. Finishes long and dry. Sweet fruited yet not sweet. Drink now – 2030 11.5% alc 89 points

1992 Tahbilk Estate Marsanne, Nagambie Lakes - Victoria

Brassy colour. Lime marmalade, orange rind aromas with hints of apricots. Generously floured wine with fresh lime squash, orange, apricot flavours, fine loose knit lacy textures, and fresh long mineral acidity. Tangy wine with wonderful length and minerality. Drink now – 2032 12.5% alc 94 points

2002 Tahbilk Estate Marsanne, Nagambie Lakes - Victoria

Medium pale colour. Fragrant camomile. honey, touch menthol/ herb garden aromas. Fresh honey, herb garden, nectarine flavours and fine lacy textures, A touch of brassiness at the finish. But still fresh and delicious. Drink now – 2032 12.5% alc 91 points

2008 Tahbilk Estate Marsanne, Nagambie Lakes - Victoria

Medium pale colour. Beautiful camomile, lemon curd, stonefruit aromas with hints of herb garden. Generous ripe and developed apricot, peach, honey flavours, fine looseknit textures, lovely mid palate richness and fresh crisp acidity. Al dente firm at the finish. A classical vintage. Drink now – 2036 12.5 alc 12.5% alc 96 points

2014 Tahbilk Estate Marsanne, Nagambie Lakes - Victoria

Medium pale colour. Bruised apple, lemon glacé, touch creme brulée aromas. Richly flavoured wine with developed lemon curd, apple, hint toffee flavours, fine touch grippy/ firm textures and long fresh pure acidity. Chalky finish with plentiful mineral notes. Quirky wine but delicious. Drink now – 2030 12.9% alc 92 points

2018 Tahbilk Estate Marsanne, Nagambie Lakes - Victoria

Medium pale colour. Fresh lemon honey aromas with herb notes. Beautifully balanced wine with pure lemon, grapefruit, honey flavours, fine loose knit chalky al dente textures  and well-integrated minerally acidity. A touch of torque at the finish. Drink now – 2034 12% alc 94 points

2021 Tahbilk Estate Marsanne, Nagambie Lakes - Victoria

Pale colour. Fresh lemon, grapefruit, herb garden hint sage aromas. Pure fruited wine with lemon, grapefruit flavours, fine chalky grippy textures and fresh long acidity. Still lean and racy with some grippy/ chalky notes at the finish. Drink now – 2032 12.8% alc 93 points

2024 Tahbilk Estate Marsanne, Nagambie Lakes - Victoria

Pale colour. Elemental wine with lifted lemon, tonic water aromas with herb garden notes. Racy wine with pure lemony, citrus fruits, fine loose knit chalky textures and fresh pure crisp acidity. Touch of yeasty notes at the finish, Drink now – 2030 12.7% alc 90 points

2000 Tahbilk 1927 Vines Marsanne, Nagambie Lakes - Victoria

Pale colour. Intense honey marzipan aromas with vanilla herb notes. Touch of brassiness. Fresh and complex wine with ample honey, lemon curd, marzipan flavours, fine dense touch sinewy textures and fresh long crisp acidity. Old fashioned style with a hint of dry sherry. Drink now 11% alc 92 points

2003 Tahbilk 1927 Vines Marsanne, Nagambie Lakes - Victoria

Pale colour. Fresh lemon curd, herb garden, honey, hint oilskin aromas and flavours. Grippy palate with lemon curd, honey, roasted walnut flavours, fine al dente textures, very good volume and fresh long cutting acidity. Bittersweet phenolic finish. Still on its journey. Drink now - 2034 11% alc 91 points

2004 Tahbilk 1927 Vines Marsanne, Nagambie Lakes - Victoria

Pale colour. Fragrant lemon curd, honey marzipan aromas with gin-botanicals notes. Generously concentrated palate with ample lemon curd, marzipan, oily flavours, fine loose knit chalky textures and underlying herbal/ botanical notes. Finishes grippy, but balanced by the volume and richness of flavour. Drink now – 2030 11% alc 93 points

2008 Tahbilk 1927 Vines Marsanne, Nagambie Lakes - Victoria

Pale colour. Attractive stonefruit, honeyed aromas with herb. Oilskin notes. Generous and minerally with well-developed stone fruits, citrus herb, honey flavours, fine loose knit chalky firm textures, very good mid palate volume and long crips acidity. Bittersweet finish. Drink now – 2034 11.5% alc 94 points

2010 Tahbilk 1927 Vines Marsanne, Nagambie Lakes - Victoria

Pale colour. Lemon herb honeyed aromas with touch of bush garrigue. Generous and powerful in structure with plentiful lemon curd, honey, roasted walnut, flavours, fine loose knit chalky textures, attractive mid plate viscosity. Finishes grippy firm and minerally. Drink now – 2032 11% alc 93 points

2011 Tahbilk 1927 Vines Marsanne, Nagambie Lakes - Victoria

Pale medium colour. Lemon plasticene herbal aromas with some honey notes. Fresh minerally wine with lemon herb flavours, fine chalky firm textures and some leafy notes. Finish firm with touch of oiliness. Drink now – keep for a while. 11% alc 91 points

2012 Tahbilk 1927 Vines Marsanne, Nagambie Lakes - Victoria

Pale colour. Developed oilskin honey aromas and flavours. Richly concentrated wine with amole stonefruit, lemon curd, oily flavours, finely textured, lovely mid palate viscosity and mineral length. Finishes chalky firm. Drink now - 2034 11% alc 94 points

2016 Tahbilk 1927 Vines Marsanne, Nagambie Lakes - Victoria

Pale colour. Flinty, stonefruit, tonic water, bitter lemon aromas. Generous and minerally with lemon curd, bitter lemon fruits, fine slinky textures with touch of leaf. Undeveloped wine despite its age. Crispy finish. Drink now – 203610.6% alc 88 points

2017 Tahbilk 1927 Vines Marsanne, Nagambie Lakes - Victoria

Pale colour. Honey bitter lemon, tonic water aromas and flavours. Pure and tight with fine sinuous chalky, touch al dente textures and fresh crisp acidity. Taught but lovely aging potential. Drink now – 2038 10.6% alc 93+ points

1968 Tahbilk Shiraz, Nagambie lakes – Victoria

Medium crimson brick. Beautifully aged wine with earth, leather, horse stable, wet bitumen with hints of apricots and red fruits. Supple leather, earthy, wax polish flavours with hints of red fruits, fine lacy texture and well-integrated acidity. Finishes claret firm and long. Touch of cork flavour and bitumen at the finish. Drink now – keep for a while 12.4% alc 92 points

1971 Tahbilk Shiraz, Nagambie lakes – Victoria

Medium crimson. Lifted brambly earthy hint raspberry, touch peppery/ VA notes. Over developed wine with some juicy elements but tannins and acidity dominate. Past its best although holding up. Drink now 13% alc 86 points

 

1981 Tahbilk Shiraz, Nagambie lakes – Victoria

Medium deep crimson. Fresh dark cherry, polished leather, hint pondwater aromas with waxy notes.  Well-developed chewy textured wine with juicy dark and red cherries, touch earthy leathery flavours, fine sinewy textures and some roasted walnut notes. Finishes claret firm with some lifted nail polish notes. Holding. Drink now 14% alc 87 points

1999 Tahbilk Shiraz, Nagambie lakes – Victoria

Medium crimson. Intense redcurrant, hint cassis aromas with brick dust, hint earthy notes. Complete and developed wine with some inky cassis, earthy, roasted walnut flavours, fine chalky firm tannins and underlying mineral acidity. A medium bodied claret style. Still holding but ready to drink. Drink now – soon. 13% alc 94 points

2007 Tahbilk Shiraz, Nagambie lakes – Victoria

Deep crimson. Inky, touch dried plum, roasted walnut aromas with hints of chinotto. Generous and supple with ample red and ark berry fruits, fine ripe touch al dente textures, very good mid palate volume and fresh long acidity. Bittersweet firm and crispy finish. Drink now – 2034 15% alc 94 points

2015 Tahbilk Shiraz, Nagambie lakes – Victoria

Medium deep crimson. Fragrant red cherry red currant, raspberry fruits with roasted walnut notes. Fresh medium bided wine with raspberry pastille roasted walnut flavours and chalky loose-knit touch leafy textures. Finishes claret firm and bittersweet with hint of heat. Drink now – 2034 14.5% alc 93 points

2018 Tahbilk Shiraz, Nagambie lakes – Victoria

Deep crimson. Dark cherry, chinotto, cherry stone, with hints dark chocolate. Generously concentrated but sturdy wine with ample dark cherry, dark chocolate flavours, fine chocolaty form textures, and lovely mineral length. Builds walnutty firm at the finish. Yum. Drink now – 2040. 14.2% alc 95 points

2021 Tahbilk Shiraz, Nagambie lakes – Victoria

Medium deep crimson. Intense dark cherry, chinotto, hint walnutty aromas. Generously concentrated slurpy wine with dark cherry, cassis fruits, chalky graphite textures and pure crisp acidity. Drink now – keep for a while. 14.4% alc 86 points

2022 Tahbilk Shiraz, Nagambie lakes – Victoria

Deep crimson. Dark cherry pastille aromas with underlying walnut, bush garrigue notes. Generous juicy dark cherry, blackberry fruits and sinuous gravelly firm bittersweet tannins. Finishes claret firm and juicy. Elemental; needing a year or so to integrate. Drink 2026 – 2040+ 14.5% alc 88 points

1971 Tahbilk Bin 7 Shiraz – Nagambie Lakes - Victoria

Medium deep crimson. Developed dark fruits, leather, earthy, brick dust roasted walnut aromas with hints of marzipan. Supple wine with dark cherry, earthy, chinotto, touch bitumen flavours, fine bittersweet tannins and fresh mineral acidity. Finishes leafy firm and long. Drink now – 2030 13.5% alc 91 points

1974 Tahbilk Bin 60 Shiraz – Nagambie Lakes - Victoria

Medium deep colour. Roasted chestnut, earthy, charcuteries, dark berry aromas with dried apricot. dried roses notes. Still buoyant and fresh with ample apricots, dark berry, fruits, chocolaty textures and underlying brambly, earthy notes. Finishes chalky al dente firm and minerally, with a tannin plume at the finish. Drink now 12% alc 89 points

1999 Tahbilk Reserve Shiraz – Nagambie Lakes - Victoria

Medium deep crimson. Dark and red cherries, marzipan and roasted walnut aromas. Supple dark cherry, red currant, red cherry, raspberry fruits, a touch of mint/ sage, fine looseknit chalky textures and marzipan/ roasted walnut, dark chocolate, notes, Finishes claret firm. Drink now – 2034 13.9% alc 93 points

2002 Tahbilk Eric Stevens Purbrick Shiraz – Nagambie Lakes - Victoria

Medium deep crimson. Fresh red cherry, redcurrant, raspberry fruits with Campari, chinotto notes. Medium bodied juicy wine with attractive red cherry redcurrant raspberry fruits, fine slinky textures and fresh crisp acidity, Builds up firm and tight at the finish with bittersweet/ walnutty notes. Drink now – 2036 13.4%% alc 90 points

2006 Tahbilk Eric Stevens Purbrick Shiraz – Nagambie Lakes - Victoria

Deep crimson. Intense dark cherry, dark chocolate aromas with chinotto notes. Inky and medium concentrated with dark cherry pastille, raspberry fruits, fine looseknit chalky firm tannins and underlying roasted walnut, chocolaty notes. Finishes chocolaty and minerally with a fan of tannins. Drink now – 2032 13.5% alc 93 points

2008 Tahbilk Eric Stevens Purbrick Shiraz – Nagambie Lakes - Victoria

Medium crimson. Redcurrant, red currant milk chocolate savoury aromas. Slightly flat.  Sweet fruited redcurrant, raspberry fruits, fine chocolaty/ velvety textures and fresh long mineral acidity. Crunchy and juicy at the finish. Drink now - 2036 14.5% alc 92 points

2010 Tahbilk Eric Stevens Purbrick Shiraz – Nagambie Lakes - Victoria

Medium crimson. Redcurrant, raspberry herb garden aromas with some chinotto notes. Fresh minerally and slinky textured wine with redcurrant, raspberry, redcurrant fruits, fine looseknit chalky tannins and long juicy acidity. Buoyant fresh and fruity with underlying savoury notes. Drink now – 2040 13.1% alc 95 points

2015 Tahbilk Eric Stevens Purbrick Shiraz – Nagambie Lakes - Victoria

Medium crimson. Raspberry, red cherry, raspberry fruits. Generous and juicy wine with ample red fruits, fine slinky textures and well-integrated acidity. Finishes minerally with a plume of tannins. Delicious wine. Drink now – 2032 13.7% alc 93 points

2017 Tahbilk Eric Stevens Purbrick Shiraz – Nagambie Lakes - Victoria

Medium deep crimson. Pure raspberry redcurrant herb garden with hint of chinotto. Beautifully balanced wine with pure sweet red fruits, fine chalky textures and underlying savoury notes. Very good example of the style. Beautiful wine. Drink now 2038 14.5% alc 95 points

2018 Tahbilk Eric Stevens Purbrick Shiraz – Nagambie Lakes - Victoria

Medium deep crimson. Dark cherry, dark plum, roasted walnut hint marzipan aromas and flavours. Generously concentrated wine with ample dark berry fruits, some chocolaty notes, velvety tannins and well-balanced mineral acidity. Chocolaty firm and long. Drink now – 2042 14.5% alc 93 points

1984 Tahbilk 1860 Vines Shiraz – Nagambie Lakes - Victoria

Medium crimson. Attractive raspberry pastille stonefruit aromas with earth wax polish notes. Generous and silky textured with ample red berry fruits, fine sinuous tannins and well-integrated acidity. Lovely chalky finish with a touch of cork flavour. Still holding up well with very good complexity and richness of flavour. Drink now – soon. 12% alc 91 points

1986 Tahbilk 1860 Vines Shiraz – Nagambie Lakes - Victoria

Medium crimson. Pure black cherry, flinty, graphite aromas with wax polish hint manure notes. Complete wine. Silky and chocolatey with well-developed black cherry, minerally flavours, sooty textures and underlying chinotto, wax polish notes, Finishes velvety with fresh acidity. Drink now – 2034 12.7% alc 93 points

1994 Tahbilk 1860 Vines Shiraz – Nagambie Lakes - Victoria

Medium deep crimson. Lovely complex shiraz wine with expressive pure raspberry, roasted walnut praline aromas. Beautiful balanced wine with supple red berry, apricot fruits, fine looseknit chalky textures and well-balanced vanilla, marzipan notes. Finishes long and sweet. A classic year. Drink now – 2042 12.2% alc 96 points

1996 Tahbilk 1860 Vines Shiraz – Nagambie Lakes - Victoria

Both bottles out of condition

2002 Tahbilk 1860 Vines Shiraz – Nagambie Lakes - Victoria

Medium deep crimson. Cherry stone, herb, peppery aromas with hints of chinotto/ hint of VA. Cherry stone, peppery, marzipan chinotto flavours and noticeable nail polish characters dominate the palate. Sinewy and bittersweet. Claret like finish. Past its best? Drink now – past. 13.3% alc 84 points

2008 Tahbilk 1860 Vines Shiraz – Nagambie Lakes - Victoria

Medium deep crimson. Lovley dark cherry, blackberry pastille aromas with flinty graphite chinotto notes and hints of marzipan. Generous and filling on the palate with plentiful pure red and dark berry fruits, fine slinky textures and underlying marzipan vanilla notes. Finishes chalky and minerally. Lovely vintage. Drink now – 2040 13.3% alc 95 points

2010 Tahbilk 1860 Vines Shiraz – Nagambie Lakes - Victoria

Medium deep crimson. Red cherry redcurrant hint brambly aromas with roasted walnut, hint vanilla notes. Supple and suave with plentiful pure red cherry, raspberry strawberry fruits, fine slinky textures and underlying vanilla notes. Finishes claret firm and long. Delicious wine. Drink now – 2045 13.5% alc 97 points

2015 Tahbilk 1860 Vines Shiraz – Nagambie Lakes - Victoria

Medium deep crimson. Dark cherry, blackberry herb aromas with vanilla marzipan notes. Fresh juicy dark cherry, blackberry, hint leafy flavours, fine grippy tannins, attractive mid-palate volume and fresh long crispy acidity. Finishes firm a leafy. Drink now – 2034 13.7% alc 93 points

2016 Tahbilk 1860 Vines Shiraz – Nagambie Lakes - Victoria

Medium deep crimson. Lovely raspberry pastille redcurrant hint chocolatey aromas and flavours, fine loose knit chalky tannins, attractive inky concentration and underlying vanilla and marzipan oak notes.  A very good vintage. 13.7% alc Drink now – 2035 95 points

2017 Tahbilk 1860 Vines Shiraz – Nagambie Lakes - Victoria

Medium deep crimson. Dark cherry flinty graphite aromas with chinotto notes. Richly concentrated dark cherry pastille fruits, lovely chocolaty/ velvety textures and superb mineral length. A tannin plume at the finish. Still very youthful. Drink now – 2036 14.1% alc 95 points

2010 Tahbilk Old Vines Cabernet Shiraz – Nagambie Lakes - Victoria

Medium crimson. Lovely cassis, brambly aromas with hints of stonefruits and roasted coffee. Generously concentrated and velvety textured wine with lovely blackcurrant blackberry pastille apricot fruits and fine chocolaty tannins. Drink now – 2034 13.5% 95 points

2012 Tahbilk Old Vines Cabernet Shiraz – Nagambie Lakes - Victoria

Medium deep crimson. Blackcurrant pastille, graphite, chinotto, with hints of marzipan. Well concentrated cassis, mulberry fruits, fine velvetine tannins and underlying marzipan roasted coffee notes. Finishes velvety and long. Drink now – 2032 14% alc 91 points

2014 Tahbilk Old Vines Cabernet Shiraz – Nagambie Lakes - Victoria

Medium crimson. Intense blackcurrant, mocha, graphite, hint marzipan aromas and flavours, lovely mid palate volume and fine chocolatey tannins. Builds up firm with cedar notes at the finish, A delicious and classical example of cabernet shiraz. Drink now – 2040 14% alc 95 points

2015 Tahbilk Old Vines Cabernet Shiraz – Nagambie Lakes - Victoria

Medium crimson. Intense elderberry, blackcurrant, hint brambly aromas with dark chocolate, hint leafy notes. Generous, fruit sweet wine with attractive inky cassis, chocolaty flavours/ fine velvety tannins, juicy acidity and well-integrated savoury notes, Finishes claret firm with some leafy, sage notes. Drink now – 2035. 14% alc 93 points

2016 Tahbilk Old Vines Cabernet Shiraz – Nagambie Lakes - Victoria

Medium crimson. Fresh black and red berry, dark chocolate, touch herb aromas. Well concentrated wine with fresh mulberry, cassis, raspberry fruits, fine supple velvet tannins and well-integrated mocha. Marzipan notes. Finishes chocolaty and long with al dente bitter notes. A classic vintage. Drink now – 2034 14.1% alc 96 points

2017 Tahbilk Old Vines Cabernet Shiraz – Nagambie Lakes - Victoria

Medium crimson. Dark cherry, brambly aromas with flinty/ graphite notes. Well concentrated inky palate with sturdy blackcurrant, dark cherry fruits and fine chalky firm tannins. Very good volume and vigour. Claret firm at the finish. Drink now – 2032 14% alc 93 points

2018 Tahbilk Old Vines Cabernet Shiraz – Nagambie Lakes - Victoria

Medium crimson, Raspberry slightly confectionary redcurrant, red liquorice chinotto aromas. Fresh and well concentrated red currant, raspberry fruits, fine slinky graphite tannins. Finishes grippy firm. Drink now – 2036 14.6% alc 94 points

2019 Tahbilk Old Vines Cabernet Shiraz – Nagambie Lakes - Victoria

Medium crimson. Raspberry, redcurrant, mocha aromas with hints of herb. Sweet fruited wine with juicy red berry fruits fine loose knit chalky tannins and underlying savoury nuances. Finishes firm and tight. Drink now 2036 14.5% alc 93 points

2020 Tahbilk Old Vines Cabernet Shiraz – Nagambie Lakes - Victoria

Medium deep crimson. Black cherry, raspberry brambly sage aromas and flavours with chocolaty textures, attractive mid palate volume/ richness and underlying mineral acidity. Builds up firm with seductive sweet fruits at the finish. Drink now – 2040 14.1% alc 94 points

1965 Tahbilk Cabernet Sauvignon, Nagambie Lakes - Victoria

Medium deep crimson. Fresh cassis, polish leather, brick dust aromas with hint of liquorice and spice. Well-developed wine with buoyant cassis, leather, dark chocolate, spice, apricot flavours, fine loose knit chocolaty tannins and well balanced fresh acidity. In great condition for this age. Drink now 12.6% alc 93 points

1971 Tahbilk Cabernet Sauvignon, Nagambie Lakes - Victoria

Medium deep crimson. Nail varnish characters dominate the palate, but red cherry, red currant apricot fruits, fine slinky tannins and mineral acidity highlight a very good wine. Bittersweet VA finish. Holding up. Drink now 13% alc 85 points

1981 Tahbilk Cabernet Sauvignon, Nagambie Lakes - Victoria

Medium crimson. Earthy apricot cassis aromas with hints of dark chocolate. Well balanced wine with plentiful cassis, apricot dark chocolate fruits, fine slinky textures, attractive mid plate richness and long fresh acidity. Still holding up. Drink now 13% alc 90 points

1998 Tahbilk Cabernet Sauvignon, Nagambie Lakes - Victoria

Medium deep crimson. Intense choco-berry aromas with hints of liquorice and spice. Generously concentrated dark chocolate dark berry, brambly fruits and fine chalky tannins. Very good volume and persistency. Finishes firm and minerally.  Drink now –2032 13% alc 95 points

2002 Tahbilk Cabernet Sauvignon, Nagambie Lakes - Victoria

Deep crimson. Stale carob, dark chocolate, herb aromas and flavours. Sinewy palate. Firm finish with tobacco leaf notes. Not in great condition. Drink now. 14% alc 84 points

2010 Tahbilk Cabernet Sauvignon, Nagambie Lakes - Victoria

Medium deep crimson. Classical cassis, hint dark chocolate cedar aromas. Fine grained palate with ample cassis cedar fruits, supple textures and underlying roasted walnut notes. Firm claret finish. A great year for this series. Drink now – 2040 13.5% alc 97 points

2015 Tahbilk Cabernet Sauvignon, Nagambie Lakes - Victoria

Medium deep crimson. Fresh black cherry cassis, aromas with brambly notes. Surprisingly youthful with ample blackcurrant, touch mocha flavours, fine grainy tannins and underlying roasted walnut, touch marzipan notes. Sinewy, juicy and vibrant at the finish. Drink now – 2035 14% alc 94 points

2021 Tahbilk Cabernet Sauvignon, Nagambie Lakes - Victoria

Medium deep crimson, Intense blackcurrant, mulberry aromas with hints of herb garden. Generous and buoyant with juicy blackcurrant blackberry fruits, vigorous chalky tannins and fresh crips acidity. Claret firm finish. Very elemental and unevolved. Drink now – 2040 14% alc 91 points

2022 Tahbilk Cabernet Sauvignon, Nagambie Lakes - Victoria

Deep crimson. Elderberry, cassis, dark chocolate aromas and flavours. With ample fine-grained tannins and underlying savoury notes. This should evolve very well as elements all in balance. Drink 2026 – 2042 14.3% alc 94+ points

1962 Tahbilk Bin 26 Cabernet Sauvignon, Nagambie Lakes - Victoria

Medium deep crimson. Cassis, espresso, mocha aromas with hints of leather and spice. Lovely cassis, apricot expresso cassis flavours, fine grainy texture and vibrant but integrated acidity. Delicious wine. Drink now 12.8% alc 95 points

1968 Tahbilk Bin 51 Cabernet Sauvignon, Nagambie Lakes - Victoria

Medium deep colour. Cassis, roasted coffee aromas with hints of polished leather/ manure. Elegantly styled wine with pure blackcurrant, touch earthy/ washed rind flavours, fine grained textures and underlying leather, tobacco leaf notes. Finishes cedar firm. Drink now 12% alc 93 points

1976 Tahbilk Bin 57 Cabernet Sauvignon, Nagambie Lakes - Victoria

Deep crimson. Wax polish, leafy, dark cherry aromas with roasted walnut mocha notes. Richly concentrated dark cherry cassis, dark chocolate, espresso flavours, fine grainy/ leafy textures with a lick of alcohol at the finish. Atypical but lovely. Drink now 14.5% alc 94 points

 

1981 Tahbilk Bin 68 Cabernet Sauvignon, Nagambie Lakes - Victoria

Medium deep crimson. Black cherry leather roasted walnut aromas. Richly concentrated black cherry, wax polish roasted walnut hint mocha flavours, fine grainy touch leafy tannins and fresh marked acidity. Very good volume but dries out towards the finish. Drink now 13% alc 90 points

1991 Tahbilk Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Nagambie Lakes - Victoria

Medium crimson. Red cherry red currant with tobacco leaf note graphite notes. Sweet fruited red cherry, red currant fruits, fine bittersweet tannins, finishing leafy firm. A sturdy vintage but losing its fruit. Drink now – soon. 12.2% alc 87 points

1996 Tahbilk Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Nagambie Lakes - Victoria

Medium deep crimson. Dark cherry brambly dark chocolate aromas with roasted walnut notes. Generous and sweet fruited with amole dark chocolate dark berry fruits, fine bittersweet/ firm tannins and underlying fresh crips acidity. Finishes sinewy with ample dark fruits. Very good year. Drink now – 2032 13.2% alc 94 points

1999 Tahbilk Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Nagambie Lakes - Victoria

Medium deep coliur. Cassis tobacco leaf touch carob aromas with hints of VA. Sweet fruited and supple textured with ample ripe dark berry fruits, sweet fine tannins and fresh long mineral acidity. Supple and well concentrated, but a touch flat. Drink now 13.3% alc 86 points

2002 Tahbilk Eric Stevens Cabernet Sauvignon, Nagambie Lakes - Victoria

Medium deep colour. Fresh cassis, redcurrant aromas with herb bitter dark chocolate notes. Bittersweet palate with red and dark berry fruits, fine slinky al dente textures and well-integrated acidity, Finishes leaf at the finish. Drink now – keep for a while. 14.5% 90 points

2009 Tahbilk Eric Stevens Cabernet Sauvignon, Nagambie Lakes - Victoria

Medium deep colour. Intense blackcurrant, chinotto, roasted coffee, hint dark chocolate , sage aromas. Well concentrated blackcurrant pastille, chinotto flavours, lovely inky density and fine-grained tannins. Finishes classically claret-like. A lovely wine. Drink now – 2036 13.8% alc 95 points

2015 Tahbilk Eric Stevens Cabernet Sauvignon, Nagambie Lakes - Victoria

Medium deep crimson. Fresh blackcurrant, mulberry, chinotto aromas with underlying savoury notes. Lovely fresh cassis, mulberry, chinotto flavours, fine grainy, touch leafy notes and well-balanced roasted walnut, touch marzipan notes, Finishes firm and tight. Drink now – 2034 13.9% alc 93 points

2017 Tahbilk Eric Stevens Cabernet Sauvignon, Nagambie Lakes - Victoria

Medium deep crimson. Fresh cassis blackcurrant touch dusty aromas. Sweet and concentrated wine with ample blackcurrant, hint dark chocolate, walnutty flavours and fine sinewy/ firm tannins. Bittersweet finish. Drink now – 2032 14.2% alc 93 points

2018 Tahbilk Eric Stevens Cabernet Sauvignon, Nagambie Lakes - Victoria

Medium deep crimson. A classical vintage. Lovely pure blackcurrant pastille hint herb chinotto aromas with underlying dark chocolate/ mocha notes. Richly flavoured with cassis, inly liquorice flavours, fine bittersweet tannins and lovely fresh long acidity. Fab. Drink now – 2042 14.6% alc 96 points

 

Angus Hughson
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