Head Wines Grenache

Written By Angus Hughson

Ancestor and Old Vines on show

Unquestionably Alex Head is making one of Australia’s finest and most successful grenache styles. A recent vertical tasting of Head Old Vines Grenache and Head Ancestor Vines Grenache highlighted 20 years of hard graft and achievement. In contrast to many of his contemporaries Alex Head began his venture in 2005 with virtually no capital and no great experience in winemaking, other than bucket loads of enthusiasm, an understanding of fine wine aesthetics and a nose for the future.

When thinking of Alex’s accomplishments, I am reminded of the Late Bob Mclean who was an inspirational and beloved pioneer of the Barossa’s old vine movement. Shortly before he died aged 67 of liver cancer in 2015, he penned some thoughts about his life and many achievements. He wrote ‘I was never really a star at anything, but I participated in everything. That’s the secret. You don’t have to be a star. Just participate.’ These are words of great wisdom and resonate greatly. Alex Head’s joy of life and ability to engage, learn and participate have won him friends and mentors throughout his journey in wine. Having worked at Langton’s for a few years, before he jumped into the void, I witnessed first-hand his work ethic, curiosity and daily optimism. As a cancer-survivor not a day went by without him showing gratitude for being alive.

Alex Head’s foray into winemaking was not completely without knowledge. Prior to Langton’s he had worked for wine merchant Jon Osbeiston, one of the Sydney’s great wine experts and at Langton’s he probably observed the unrealised potential of the Barossa Valley. These experiences may have shaped his outlook but Alex’s friendship with winemaker Marco Cirillo, was perhaps the most fortuitous. Vintage experience and mentorship at Cirillo wines gave him the confidence to branch out on his own. But it was not without risk.

In 2009 Alex Head was allowed to buy a small amount of grenache from Cirillo’s 1848 plantings at Vine Vale. Only a few years previously Yalumba had released its Old Vine Charter and quantified the meaning of the Barossa’s old vine heritage. Although inroads have been made since, the history and value of these venerable old vines are still not widely understood despite them representing the oldest surviving acreage of 19th Century plantings in the world. Looking back, it was providential to receive a parcel of such grand old grenache vine material. Not just any parcel, but grapes grown on the oldest grenache vines in the world.

With further guidance Alex Head also found a 100-year old oak Foudre cask from Chateau Yaldara and had it reconditioned by Stiller’s Cooperage. This ‘first vintage’ experience, which resulted in a spectacularly lovely first Head Old Vine Grenache, confirmed Head’s intuition that old vines were an unsung and incredibly valuable resource.

Sourcing fruit from Marco Cirillo’s plot of 1848 grenache vines could never be anything but a one-off gesture. Already the prized Cirillo 1850 Grenache (based on 1848 vines!)  was picking up momentum in the broader market and this scarce resource could only be used for one thing. But the following year Alex Head was able to source fruit from Greenock Farm, owned by John Russell and later sold to Argentine oil and gas billionaire Alejandro Bulgheroni (and renamed Alkina). These 1950-planted grenache vines together with the Hongell Family’s 1942 plantings at Krondorf have been at the centre of old vine sourcing since this time with the Eden Valley’s 1858-planted Stonegarden Vineyard contributing fruit exclusively to the Ancestor Vines Grenache since 2012. In more recent times the Eden Valley’s Mattschoss 1940s Vines and Barossa Valley’s Riebke 1950s Vines have contributed to the Old Vine Blend, while a touch of 1965-planted mataro was successfully employed in 2023 to improve vinosity on the palate.

As a negociant winemaker, the sourcing of old vine grenache grapes has become very challenging. The demand for this type of material has also rocketed in recent times. A tonne of fruit can cost upwards of $5000 and there is no shortage of takers. But loyalty of many growers seems to protect Head Wines from being guzumped by competitive forces.

At one stage Alex had around 10 suppliers of old vine material but now mainly sources from 3 to 6 growers in any given year. He believes that grenache grown in the higher elevated sites of the Eden Valley gives more expressive aromatics and minerally structures in his final wines. But he also acknowledges the excellence of Barossa Valley vineyards which offer riper and richer flavours. But for longevity potential and refinement, Alex Head has a preference for high elevated sites. The naturally higher acidities and tannin profiles give an overall tension that are hard to beat. Alex Head says ‘A lot of the current attention is given to McLaren Vale Grenache, but the Barossa as a whole, offers a fantastic diversity of styles, much of it based on vines of at least 35 years old. In some ways I think grenache should be the hero variety rather than shiraz.’

The historic 1858-planted Stonegarden Vineyard, at 400 meters altitude, is located in the driest and coldest part of the Eden Valley. A few years ago, it was acquired by the legendary Robert O’Callaghan of Rockford Wines, renowned for his sense of history and loyalty to the wine community. There’s every chance that the 12-year association will continue.

As Alex Head notes ‘the soils are varied with a multitude of scattered rocks and stones made of schists, micas, ironstones, sandstones and quartz layered over decomposed granitic sands and fine clays.’ Consistent to these geological characters a fine-boned ferruginous texture features prominently in Head’s Ancestor Vine Grenache. These tannins and pure acid line give the wine backbone, animation and longevity while never overwhelming the transparency of fruit.

The Ancestor Vines Grenache are exclusively taken off the Stonegarden Vineyard. The series, representing vineyard provenance of over at least 125 years, has become something of a cult classic representing the very best of the Barossa’s grenache wines and one of the Barossa’s great 19th Century vineyards. Nowadays he will only release Ancestor Vines Grenache if the wine reflects the grand cru character of the vineyard. Otherwise the fruit is incorporated into the Old Vines Grenache series. A triage method of selection also takes place with this series, with unsuitable material being declassified for Head’s more commercial Head Red GSM style.

Over the last twenty years Alex Head has learned some key lessons through trial and error. He believes that only the best grenache fruit comes from old vines. This means they must be at least 35 years before the grapes really show the expressive characters and structures required for his style of winemaking.

Another rule is that Head’s grenache wines must not be manipulated in any way. Except for the 2016 Vintage, in which new oak maturation was employed, all wines are aged in seasoned oak barrels. There are no additions or subtractions that take place apart from around (10-100%) whole bunch fermentation to promote aromatics and fine-boned structures. And the wines are all unfined and unfiltered. Typically both wines are aged for around 11 months in seasoned large format oak (500L puncheons or 600L demi-muids). In some years maturation can extend to 17 months (2015,2016,2021 & 2024) to allow the elements to settle and fold.

Head’s Ancestor Vines and Old Vine Grenache deserve recognition as model reference styles. Most importantly the wines develop more complexity and volume with bottle age, making them some of the most delicious and joyful grenache wines one could buy and cellar.

 

Old Vines

2009 Head Old Vine Grenache, Barossa – South Australia

Medium deep crimson. Lovely wax polish, red currant, red plum aromas with hints of orange rind. Well concentrated and minerally with developed red plum, leather flavours, fine loose knit slinky al dente textures and fresh indelible acidity. Very good mid palate volume and mineral length. Some saline notes at the finish. Beautifully balanced wine. Exceptional freshness and complexity. 100% Cirillo 1848 Vines, Vine Vale. Drink now – keep for a while. 14.5% alc 96 points

2010 Head Old Vine Grenache, Barossa – South Australia

Medium deep crimson. Fresh musky plum, hint vanilla aromas with dark chocolate notes. Generous and inky textured with ample red plum, strawberry pastille fruits, fine chalky tannins and underlying earthy, savoury notes before a bittersweet finish with chinotto. 100% Russell (Alkina) 1950s Vines, Greenock. Drink now – soon. 14% alc 94 points

2011 Head Old Vine Grenache, Barossa – South Australia

Medium crimson. Develop sweet marzipan earthy aromas. Lightly concentrated and slightly dilute with raspberry pastille, red liquorice, leafy flavours, fine bitter sweet tannins and fresh long acidity. Holding together but at its peak of development. 100% Russell (Alkina) 1950s Vines, Greenock. Drink now – soon 13.5% alc 90 points

2012 Head Old Vine Grenache, Barossa – South Australia

Medium crimson. Intense lifted dark chocolate, plum, hint herb garden, touch VA aromas. Generous plum, chinotto, hint bush garrigue flavours, fine loose knit chalky textures and well-integrated roasted walnut notes. Finishes firm and tight. Very good length, freshness and vinosity. 100% Hongell 1942 Vines, Krondorf. Drink now – keep for a while. 15.1% alc 96 points

2013 Head Old Vine Grenache, Barossa – South Australia

Medium crimson. Slightly stale mocha, tobacco, beetroot aromas with soupy notes. Generously concentrated with red currant mocha, touch smoky flavours, fine loose knit chalky firm tannins. Finishes bittersweet and long. Oddly fresh on the palate but more developed on the nose. 100% Hongell 1942 Vines, Krondorf. Drink now 14.3% alc 90 points

2014 Head Old Vine Grenache, Barossa – South Australia

Medium deep crimson. Musky plum roasted coffee aromas with some polished leather notes. Inky textured and well concentrated with dark plum, strawberry, roasted coffee, dark chocolate flavours, lovely light chocolaty tannins and well-integrated savoury notes. Finishes gravelly with persistent dark berry fruits. 100% Hongell 1942 Vines, Krondorf. Drink now – keep for a while. 14.8% alc. 96 points

2015  Head Old Vine Grenache, Barossa – South Australia

Medium deep crimson. Developed raspberry, plum apricot aromas with hints of tobacco. Generously concentrated and minerally fresh with ample raspberry, red plum, red liquorice flavours, fine lacy firm tannins and well-balanced roasted walnut, hint marzipan notes. Finishes chocolaty firm and tight. 100% Russell (Alkina) 1950s Vines, Greenock. Drink now – soon 13.5% alc 95 points

2016 Head Old Vine Grenache, Barossa – South Australia

Medium deep crimson. Flinty red cherry, red plum, espresso aromas with hint of crème brûlée. Sweet fruited and chocolaty firm with abundant red cherry, raspberry fruits and well balanced roasted walnut, earthy notes. Minerally at the finish., More present than earlier vintages with a strong vigorous structure. Lovely depth and flow. 70% Russell (Alkina) 1950s Vines, Greenock & 30% Stonegarden 1858 Vines, Springton. Drink now –  2034 15.1% alc 96 points

2017 Head Old Vine Grenache, Barossa – South Australia

Medium deep crimson. Raisined plum red cherry, redcurrant, raspberry aromas with carob notes. Inky textured on the palate with red cherry, prune red liquorice flavours, fine chalky tannins and underlying savoury notes. Touch leafy at the finish. Drinking well but odd sweet and sour notes pervade. 100% Stonegarden 1858 Vines, Springton. Drink now 15% alc 89 points

2018 Head Old Vine Grenache, Barossa – South Australia

Medium deep crimson. Very expressive dark cherry, strawberry aromas with roasted walnut, chinotto notes. Beautifully concentrated wine with ample dark cherry, strawberry fruits, fine chalky/ al dente firm tannins and well-balanced roasted hazelnut notes, Finishes minerally and long. Delicious wine with a lovely core of sweet fruit. 80% Stonegarden 1858 Vines, Springton & 20% McLean’s Farm, Menglers Hill. Drink now – 2036 97 points

2019 Head Old Vine Grenache, Barossa – South Australia

Medium crimson. Red currant, strawberry aromas with fresh pastry, touch bush garrigue notes. Sturdy in structure with well concentrated red fruits, hints of mint and tobacco, and slinky bittersweet textures.  Chinotto notes at the finishes with chewy textures. 60% Hongell 1942 Vines, Krondorf & 40% Stonegarden 1858 Vines, Springton. Drink now - 2034 14.8% alc 93 points

2020 Head Old Vine Grenache, Barossa – South Australia

Medium deep crimson. Strawberry pastille, mocha touch herb garden aromas. Inky and chocolaty textured wine with ample strawberry, red cherry, leathery flavours and chalky firm tannins. Builds up muscular and tight at the finish with cedar/ liquorice notes. Lovely depth and viscosity to go with the vigour. 70% Hongell 1942 Vines, Krondorf & 30% McLean’s Farm, Menglers Hill. Drink now – 2035 14.4% alc 94 points

2021 Head Old Vine Grenache, Barossa – South Australia

Medium deep crimson. Intense pure strawberry, musky plum, chinotto aromas with underlying savoury notes. Sweet fruited and generous with ample strawberry, dark plum, espresso flavours, loose knit slinky textures, wonderful mid palate viscosity and fresh linear acidity, Finishes long with a tannin plume. 100% Stonegarden 1858 Vines, Springton. Drink now – 2038 14.9% alc 97 points

2022 Head Old Vine Grenache, Barossa – South Australia

Medium deep colour. Generous musky plum, raspberry pastille touch graphite aromas with inky chinotto notes. Fresh plum, raspberry, strawberry fruits with some bush garrigue notes, fine loose knit savoury touch al dente textures, very good mid palate volume and well-balanced acidity. A classic Barossa grenache with attractive flow and mineral length.  80% Hongell 1942 Vines, Krondorf & 20% Stonegarden 1858 Vines, Springton. Drink now – 2035 14.2% alc 96 points

2023 Head Old Vine Grenache, Barossa – South Australia

Medium deep colour, Bubble gum, cola, strawberry aromas with perfumed camomile notes. Chalky textured wine with vibrant primary fruits and lacy but leafy firm textures. Some cola notes at the finish. Sturdy and bright with very good depth and length. Will probably settle down over time. Approx 98% Riebke 1950 Vines, Ebenezer. A touch of 1965 mataro, Nuriootpa in the blend. Drink 2026 – 2036 14.6% alc 93+ points

2024 Head Old Vine Grenache, Barossa – South Australia

Very young and elemental with juicy fruit, raspberry touch apricot aromas. Slurpy and primary with ample raspberry, musky plum, stone fruit, vanilla flavours and fine loose knit chalky tannins. Not ready to drink. 80% Mattschoss 1940s Vines, Pewsey Vale, 200% Riebke 1950 Vines, Ebenezer. 2027 – 2036 14.4%  94-96 points

Ancestor Vines

2013 Head Ancestor Vines Grenache, Eden Valley – South Australia

Medium deep crimson. Intense black cherry aromas with musky plum, bush garrigue, hint polished leather notes. Fresh minerally wine with abundant cherry, plum, apricot fruits, some earthy notes and persistent firm grippy tannins Very good mid palate volume and mineral length. Delicious aged wine with superb extract and flow. Drink now – keep for a while. 14.8% alc 96 points

2014 Head Ancestor Vines Grenache, Eden Valley – South Australia

Medium deep crimson. Lovely strawberry, raspberry, roasted walnut aromas with hints of wax polish and mint. Seductively concentrated and inky deep with ample strawberry pastille, raspberry fruits. Plentiful fine chalky tannins and underlying savoury notes. Sinuous and refined with super mineral length. A great Barossa Grenache. Drink now – 2036 14.7% alc 98 points

2015 Head Ancestor Vines Grenache, Eden Valley – South Australia

Medium deep crimson. Herb garden, strawberry, musky plum aromas with orange hint cloves notes. Inky textured wine with abundant strawberry, musky plum flavours, fine earthy textures and some bitter-sweet notes. Finishes inky and minerally. Sweet and savoury wine with lovely texture and balance. Drink now – keep for a while 14.6% alc 96 points

2016 Head Ancestor Vines Grenache, Eden Valley – South Australia

Medium deep crimson. Intense raspberry, dark chocolate aromas with hints of apricot and bush garrigue. Beautifully concentrated and inky deep with lovely pure raspberry fruits, juicy fresh acidity and long savoury tannins. Chinotto notes at the finish. Very seductive and beautifully balanced wine. Drink now – 2032 14.5% alc 97+ points

2019 Head Ancestor Vines Grenache, Eden Valley – South Australia

Medium deep crimson. Intense red plum, strawberry, dark chocolate touch minty notes. Generous but slightly saline with red plum, strawberry, mocha cacao flavours, fine loose knit firm graphite textures and fresh long acidity. Quite sturdy in structure with lovely mineral length. Drink now – keep for a while. 15.1% alc 95 points

2020 Head Ancestor Vines Grenache, Eden Valley – South Australia

Medium deep crimson. Lovey lifted strawberry, raspberry, mocha aromas with hints of herb garden. Beautifully balanced wine with abundant strawberry pastille, raspberry, touch earthy flavours, plentiful lacy textures, superb viscosity and underlying graphite notes. Builds up leafy and minerally. Lovely presence and flow. Drink now – 2036 14.5% alc 97 points

2023 Head Ancestor Vines Grenache, Eden Valley – South Australia

Medium deep crimson. Fragrant chinotto, raspberry pastille red liquorice aromas. Well concentrated raspberry cola, mulberry fruits, firm chalky tannins and some cedar/ roasted walnut notes. Still in parts but will develop well. Drink 2026 – 2036 14.2% alc 95+ points

2024 Head Ancestor Vines Grenache, Eden Valley – South Australia

Medium deep crimson. Red cherry, chinotto, liquorice aromas with herb garden notes. Bittersweet palate with ample red berry fruits, lovely mid palate volume and fine al dente/ chewy textures. A hint of chewiness at the finish. Not ready. Drink 2028 – 2038 14.4% alc  95-97 points?

Angus Hughson
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