Chapel Hill

Written By Angus Hughson

2025 Chapel Hill Release

The story of Chapel Hill is interconnected with the McLaren Vale renaissance during the 1970s. Its fame was indelibly linked to the pioneering winemaker Pam Dunsford who broke ground for women in wine during the 1970s and 1980s. Situated on the edge of the Onkaparinga gorge, Chapel Hill draws fruit from its own vineyards and local growers. The powerful partnership of viticulturist Rachel Steer and winemaker Michael Fragos have led to great progress in vineyard management, sustainable practices and precision winemaking techniques.  Although owned by Endeavour Group, which owns Dan Murphy’s and BWS retail chains, Michael Fragos has navigated brilliantly well through the corporate fog of egos and conflicting agendas. In the end these wines show excellence and resilience against these forces. Nonetheless The Devil is overworked and lacks the shape and flow of the other wines. But it ticks the boxes when it comes to the idea of premiumisation at Dan Murphy’s. I am sure it will be well received by its clientele. On the other hand, the 1941 Vines Grenache is effortless and drinking beautifully. The highly commendable Single Block Cabernet shows how this variety is undervalued and underappreciated in McLaren Vale.

2023 Chapel Hill 1941 Vines Grenache, McLaren Vale – South Australia

Medium crimson. Fresh pure strawberry, musky plum aromas with chinotto/aniseed notes. Generous strawberry, red plum, red liquorice fruits, fine slinky textures and fresh juicy acidity. Finishes chalky and minerally. Lovely fruit purity, concentration and energy. A beautifully balanced and classically proportioned grenache with superb fruit definition and flow. An impressive McLaren Vale Grenache highlighting exceptional vineyard provenance and high-quality winemaking. Best to drink soon to enjoy the primary fruits but will hold for a while. Drink now – 2032 14.5% alcohol 96 points

2022 Chapel Hill The Vicar Shiraz, McLaren Vale – South Australia

Medium deep crimson. Lovely pure dark plum, blackberry aromas with brambly/ aniseed notes. Well balanced and elemental with abundant dark plum, blackberry fruits, fine slinky firm tannins, lovely mid-palate richness, underlying savoury hint cedar notes and fresh long indelible acidity. Finishes claret firm with bittersweet notes. Bright, vivacious and plush with great drinking ahead. Drink now – 2033+ 14.5% alc 95 points

2022 Chapel Hill Road Block Shiraz, McLaren Vale – South Australia

Medium deep crimson. Dark cherry, blackberry, graphite aromas with brambly notes. Fresh pure dark cherry, black berry pastille flavours, fine slinky firm bittersweet tannins and underlying cedar, touch vanilla notes. Finishes gravelly with seductive sweet fruit notes and hints of bush garrigue. A serious ultra-fine shiraz with the vigour, richness and ferruginous complexity for further aging. Drink now -2035 14.5% alc 95 points

2022 Chapel Hill Single Block Cabernet Sauvignon, McLaren Vale – South Australia

Medium deep crimson. Intense blackcurrant, graphite aromas with hints of cedar and bush garrigue. Generously concentrated with ample cassis, dark plum, blackberry fruits, cola/ chinotto notes, fine loose knit grainy firm tannins and well-integrated cedar notes. Richly flavoured and complex with superb filigreed claret structure and mineral length. Velvety and plush at entry but sinewy and tight at the finish with a long tannin plume. Drink 2027 – 2038 14.5% alc 97 points

2021 Chapel Hill ‘The Devil’ 1977 Vines Shiraz, McLaren Vale – South Australia

Deep colour. Intense dark plum, blackberry, liquorice aromas with roasted chestnut notes. Richly flavoured dark plum, blackberry fruits, fine suppliers touch, al-dente  tannins, superb mid-palate richness, cedar/roasted chestnut notes. Liquorice/ aniseed notes at the finish. Quite solid in structure, yet plush in quality. Released a touch too early for drinking well. But the elements are all in balance to achieve complexity and longevity. Leave it to settle down. Drink - 2028 - 2040+ 14.5% alc 93+ points

Angus Hughson
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