Tapanappa

Written By Angus Hughson

2025 Tapanappa Tiers Vineyard Chardonnays

When vignerons Brian and Anne Croser planted their Tiers Vineyard in 1979, it was the beginning of a fine wine renaissance. Their efforts would put the Adelaide Hills firmly on the map as one of Australia’s pre-eminent cool-climate wine regions. Situated on the eastern edge of the Mount Lofty Ranges, the seven-hectare Tapanappa property (planted with heritage cuttings derived from 1932 Busby importation and French Bernard Clones) is emblematic of visionary ambitions for Australian fine wine.

For several years The Tiers Vineyard spear-headed ultra-fine single vineyard chardonnay under the Petaluma label and soon became the reference style. Although Murray Tyrrell pioneered chardonnay throughout the 1970s with his iconic Vat 47, many other winemakers industry grappled with the variety. Chardonnay wines were all too often corpulent in structure and/or over manipulated with lashings of oak. But Brian Croser’s influential and powerful presence, combined with imaginative language and singular purpose, profoundly elevated the cause of fine Australian chardonnay during the late 1980s, 1990s and beyond. The term Distinguished Vineyard Site became the Australian euphemism for terroir while The Tiers Vineyard exemplified Croser’s higher calling. The pure fruit quality, creamy density and clarity of Tiers Vineyard Chardonnay, found in most vintages, has demonstrated the ongoing stature of the vineyard while reflecting precision and craftsmanship.

When the brand was acquired by Lion Nathan in 2001, Petaluma gently faded back into the peloton; the casualty of FCMG marketing principles and changing patterns of the retail market particularly. Initially the Tiers Vineyard Chardonnay harvest was shared between Petaluma and the Croser Family’s Tapanappa label, but this arrangement recently ended. 2021 Petaluma Tiers Vineyard Chardonnay was the last release

But the Tiers Vineyard has always remained in the possession of the Croser family, while control of the winery and cellars returned in 2014. Under the Tapanappa label (created in 2002) the Tiers Vineyard has enjoyed a particular presence within the fine wine community. The character and style of the wines reflect both vineyard site and Brian Croser’s distinctive and admired winemaking methods. Ultimately a distinguished vineyard site achieves its status through nature and nurture. Without both, a reputation cannot exist.

Tapanappa, The Tiers Vineyard, Piccadilly Valley, Adelaide Hills

“The closely spaced vineyard was planted primarily with OF (Old Farm) and Mendoza clone chardonnay on their own roots, with some pinot noir plantings. The overall vineyard spacing and vertical shoot and canopy positioning with foliage wires was revolutionary at the time. The aim to achieve 90,000 buds per hectare and around two kilograms of ripened fruit per vine (roughly 6 to 6.4 tonnes per hectare) would be modelled by many other Australian grape growers during the 1980s and 1990s. In 2003, one third of the vineyard would be removed and replanted with Dijon Chardonnay clones on rootstocks (at 4,444 vines/hectare) to further add to the clonal mix and the complexity of Tapanappa’s Tiers Chardonnay. Located on podsolised red-brown earths, duplex soils and underlying schists and sandstones, the emblematic Tiers Vineyard represents a determined vision and belief as much as an emerging first growth vineyard site. In many respects it encapsulates an extraordinary personal ambition, journey, and achievement in wine.” - The Australian Ark Vol 2

According to Brian Croser the 2025 vintage was the ‘hottest, driest, and earliest’ since he began making wine in the Adelaide Hills. Such a pronouncement would seemingly foreshadow a crop of average wines, but this is simply not the case. Rather the results highlight the quality of the vineyard, the epigenetic evolution of the vines and winemaking methods. Although initially cautious about the forthcoming vintage, longstanding winemaker Con Moshos reminded Brian Croser to ‘trust the vineyard’, a philosophy that must lie behind the success of his beloved Tapanappa Tiers Chardonnays. Recently Tapanappa’s 2025 Tiers Vineyard releases were unveiled at a recent dinner organized by the marvellous chef/ proprietor Nino Zoccali of Pendolino Restaurant (Stand Arcade, Sydney) for his loyal and appreciative customers.

2025 Tapanappa 1.5m Tiers Vineyard Chardonnay, Adelaide Hills – South Australia

Pale colour. Lovely pure grapefruit, lemon curd, hint tonic water aromas. Fresh and lithe with grapefruit, nectarine, lemon curd flavours, fine lacy textures, some savoury complexity and long minerally/ crunchy acidity. Beautiful flow, purity and length. Ready to drink, but worth keeping for a while. Based on Bernard Clones 76 & 95. 95 points

2025 Tapanappa Tiers Vineyard Chardonnay, Adelaide Hills – South Australia

Pale colour. Intense grapefruit, bitter lemon, flinty aromas with hints of marzipan. Tightly structured but refreshing with ample grapefruit, lemon, hint apricot fruits, supple/ looseknit chalky textures, very good mid-palate volume and fresh resonating/ indelible acidity. Pure, linear and minerally. Heritage clones. Drink now – 2035 95 points

Tapanappa Foggy Hill Pinot Noir

Brian Croser’s Foggy Hill Vineyard in the Fleurieu Peninsula, south of McLaren Vale is one of South Australia’s most isolated vineyards. At its highest point at Parawa, it is possible to look over towards Encounter Bay where Matthew Flinders on the HMS Investigator and Nicolas Baudin on the Géographe met each other by accident on the 8th April 1802, 34 years before the foundation of South Australia. Not knowing whether England and France were at war, Matthew Flinders cleared his decks for action, but after flag signals, the encounter was cordial and the two swapped information about their explorations.

Brian Croser’s journey of exploration has also been a long story of entente cordiale with ambitions closely linked to making the finest wines possible in South Australia. Both his business interests and family have been interconnected with France through a joint venture with Champagne House Bollinger from the late 1980s, family bonds and ongoing ambitions to make wines of character and memory of place. Brian Croser’s reputation is hinged on his work and convictions as a grape grower. His belief in distinguished vineyard sites and consistency in messaging has been a foundation of Australia’s modern winemaking outlooks.

The most recent releases of Tapanappa Foggy Hill Pinot Noirs, highlight a remarkable dedication and ambition to create meaningful and memorable conversations around the potential of the grape variety in South Australia. It is now 20 years since Brian Croser planted his windswept and low-cropping Foggy Hill Vineyard at the apex of the Fleurieu Peninsula with Dijon clones. Like all ventures of this type, it seemingly takes half a lifetime to achieve meaningful results, but these newest releases show impressive progress and a new level of quality and complexity. Compared to other releases of this series, the wines show a compelling and authentic scent of place and the richness and mineral torque that comes with older vines and experienced winemaking. Although aged in French oak barriques, the percentage of new barrels is only around 33%, allowing fruit to unfold and the terroir to speak.

From the 2022 vintage, all Tapanappa wines are bottled under screwcap. This is a very welcome direction, which will no doubt create new and positive conversations. But the freshness, density and mineral length of the 2022 Foggy Hill Pinot Noir (screwcap) promises a very good medium-term future. The 2021 Foggy Hill Definitus Pinot Noir, (cork) a grand cru style based on specific micro-plots, reflects a cool season and is utterly delicious to drink. The pair are a lovely foil to each other with very similar weight and texture but differing line, impact and complexity.

2022 Foggy Hill Pinot Noir Fleurieu Peninsula – South Australia

Medium deep colour. Pure strawberry, red cherry, touch herb garden/ dried roses aromas and flavours. Supple and fresh with lovely inky density and some underlying vanilla notes. Finishes chalky and minerally. Classical in shape and style with very appealing fruit complexity and length. Drink now – 2030 95 points

2021 Foggy Hill Definitus Pinot Noir Fleurieu Peninsula – South Australia

Medium deep colour. Perfumed strawberry pastille hint chinotto aromas with savoury notes. Well concentrated strawberry pastille, cola, touch apricot flavours and supple textures. Finishes slinky and long. Lovely vinosity, complexity and mineral length. Drink now – 2032
95 points

Angus Hughson
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