Since our days queuing up together for lunch at South Australia’s Roseworthy Agricultural College, way back in the early 1980s, I have always shown an interest in Vanya Cullen’s career as a winemaker and change-setter. Now with more years behind us than ahead, I always time with her. Vanya’s insights are remarkably individual and highlight enlightened thinking, creative energy and personal courage. Her sensitivity and empathy for the land, combined with her artistry and philosophies, have frequently been offset with drama. Put simply, she has been ahead of her times for years. She is a vivid pioneering force in sustainability while being a master of her craft. These two elements coalesce to bring something special in the world of wine. The genius of vineyard site can only be revealed through the virtuosity of a grower and winemaker; in Vanya Cullen she is recognised as both.
Put simply, she has been ahead of her times for years.
While Vanya Cullen’s career is not over, the reality of succession is currently underway with the brilliant, yet understated Andy Barrett-Lennard working ‘side-by-side’ as senior winemaker. This is probably an arrangement that will continue for some time. It takes years for an understudy to achieve an exactness of style yet the empathy to adapt and improve when necessary. All artists are inspired by others, even if originality might fall from God.
Meanwhile the Cullen vineyards are managed by Brian Martin, who is also a proponent of sustainable and biodynamic practices. Although out of the limelight he has played a crucial role in maintaining and improving vine performance in more recent years.
When Vanya Cullen took the family winery down the biodynamic route, it was attained with great conviction and a belief that a spiritual connection could be achieved through a genuine communion with the land. While everyone will think of Diana Madeline Cabernet and Kevin John Chardonnay as her signature wines, her range is much wider and more exploratory, revealing a quest for perfection and harmony. In tasting her current range over an enthralling dinner, (thanks to chef Vince Conjaerts) I was taken away into the sublime.
*Shortened notes taken over dinner.
2024 Cullen Wines Dancing in the Sun, Margaret River – Western Australia
Pale colour. A lovely fresh spring like wine with ample florals and grassy notes, chalky textures, generous volume and racy acidity. Sauvignon dominant aromas but lovely richness on the palate. A blend of 53% Sauvignon Blanc, 28% Semillon, 14% Chenin Blanc, 4% Chardonnay, 1% Verdelho. Drink now – keep for a while. 93 points
2024 Cullen Wines Elvie Clarke Sauvignon Blanc Semillon, Margaret River – Western Australia
Pale colour. A full-bodied style with grassy, herb, tropical fruit aromas and flavours, fine loose knit, lacy dry textures and bittersweet notes. A refreshing early drinking style. 58% Sauvignon Blanc, 35% Semillon, 7% Verdelho. 92 points
2024 Cullen Wines Grace Madeline, Margaret River – Western Australia
Pale colour. A classical wine with lovely herb, blackcurrant, touch grassy aromas and flavours, loose knit chalky textures, lovely mid plate richness and long refreshing/ well-integrated acidity. 85% Sauvignon Blanc 15% Semillon. Drink now – 2028+ 95 points
2025 Cullen Wines Grace Madeline, Margaret River – Western Australia
Pale colour. Fruit driven and elemental with abundant lime tropical fruit herb aromas and flavours. Very good tension on the palate with fresh long mineral acidity. Let it settle for a while. 74% Sauvignon Blanc, 26% Semillon. Drink now – 2029. 94 points
A classic.
2021 Cullen Wines Sauvignon Blanc Flower Day Legacy Series, Margaret River – Western Australia
Pale colour. Lanolin, lemon curd, pear drop aromas. Very textural on the palate with lemon curd honey, touch flinty flavours, superb mid palate volume and underlying marzipan notes. Grippy notes at the finish with attractive mineral notes. Drink now – keep for a while. 96 points
2025 Cullen Wines Metricup Chardonnay, Margaret River – Western Australia
Pale colour. Intense grapefruit, tonic water aromas. Concentrated and supple with grippy textures and some lime skin notes. Based on Metricup fruit (Northern edge of Margaret River) and made for early drinking. But very good flow and mineral length. Delicious. 93 points
2024 Cullen Wines Kevin John Chardonnay, Margaret River – Western Australia
Pale colour. Lovely grapefruit, tonic water, vanilla/ marzipan aromas and flavours. Generous and creamy yet minerally and elegant. Sweet grapefruit, lemon glacé, tonic water flavours, slinky textures, lovely mid palate viscosity and fresh indelible acidity. Hints of star anise at the finish. A classic. 97 points
2024 Cullen Wines Kevin John Chardonnay Flower Day Legacy Series, Margaret River – Western Australia
Medium pale colour. A special biodynamic barrel selection with the fruit being picked on a flower day. More open and waxy with generous grapefruit, marzipan, lanolin aromas and flavours, fine loose knit chalky textures, some vanilla marzipan, grilled nut notes and long crispy acidity. Super. 97+ points
2024 Cullen Wines Dancing in the Moonlight Rosé, Margaret River – Western Australia
Pale salmon, cherry red. A fruit salad of grape varieties delivering a lovely array of juicy strawberry, red cherry, redcurrant fruits, persistent al dente textures and underlying mineral freshness. 58% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Malbec, 8% Merlot, 7% Mataro, 4% Grenache, 3% Petit Verdot. Drink now – soon. 93 points
2024 Cullen Red Moon, Margaret River – Western Australia
Bright crimson. Ample musky plum, crushed raspberries and redcurrant fruits, slinky textures, attractive mid-palate richness and long minerally/ quartz acidity. 33% Malbec, 23% Grenache, 22% Mataro, 17% Petit Verdot, 5% Merlot. Drink now-soon. 93 points
Very expressive and lovely to drink.
2023 Ephraim, Margaret River – Western Australia
Medium deep crimson. Fresh black olive, blackcurrant, hint praline aromas and flavours with attractive volume and generous chocolaty firm textures. A fruit driven style for early drinking. 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot. 93+ points
2024 Cullen Wines Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot, Margaret River – Western Australia
Deep crimson. Intense cassis, leafy herb garden aromas with hints of black olive. Lovely pure inky dark berry fruits on the palate with classical fine cedar/ grainy tannins. Finishes claret firm with violet notes. Very expressive and lovely to drink. 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot. Drink now – 2030. 95 points
2023 Cullen Wines Diana Madeline, Margaret River – Western Australia
Deep crimson Lifted pure cassis/ blackcurrant pastille with hint of mocha/ dark chocolate. Superbly concentrated and generous on the palate with inky blackcurrant, black cherry fruits, fine grained/ touch cedar textures and underlying mocha notes. Superb volume, complexity and mineral length. A beautiful wine. 94% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Cabernet Franc, 1% Merlot, 1% Petit Verdot, 1% Malbec. Drink now – 2042. 98 points
2023 Cullen Wines Full Moon MOSH (Moon Opposite Saturn Harvest), Margaret River – Western Australia
A more lively and tensioned wine than above with attractive cassis, black cherry, hint black olive aromas and flavours, fine supple tannins and well-integrated marzipan oak. Finishes firm with seductive sweet berry fruits and long indelible acidity. 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Malbec. Drink now – 2042. 96 points
2023 Cullen Wines ‘Vanya’, Margaret River – Western Australia
Fragrant and intense with expressive blackcurrant, cedar, mocha aromas with hints of violets, camomile and star anise. Generously concentrated with ample cassis/ blackcurrant pastille fruits, chocolaty/ grainy firm tannins and beautifully integrated mocha/ marzipan notes. Finishes cedary and long. Very classical in structure with wonderful definition and volume. Move over Pauillac! 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now – 2045. 99 points
Move over Pauillac!
