Cullen’s 40th International Chardonnay Tasting, conducted in blind format and based on the 2023 vintage, highlighted that Australian Chardonnay can compete and be compared with the finest cuvées from around the world. While every one’s tastes and preferences are different, I was intrigued and delighted to observe a strong regional identity that comes with Margaret River Chardonnay.
Underpinned by the ubiquitous Gingin clone, renowned for its millerandage ripening, the wines from Margaret River all possessed similar characters of grapefruit aromatics, al dente textures, attractive mid palate volume and fresh long indelible acidities. Generous in flavour and abundant in flow, the wines are compelling and delicious; often possessing a refreshing twang at the finish. Of course, they each differ in weight and style, but in my view Margaret River Chardonnay has a genuine and distinct regional imprint, that no other wine region in Australia has so far achieved.
I was intrigued and delighted to observe a strong regional identity that comes with Margaret River Chardonnay.
Although some of the great Australian chardonnays can be found in Melbourne’s Dress Circle, Tasmania or Adelaide Hills, many of these wines are defined by their house style, rather than site-specific origin. By this I mean that the winemaker’s signature plays a major role in the overall expression of their wines. Stripped bare and with some exceptions, would they show a distinct character of site? Would neighbouring wines have a commonality of character? Regardless we should be proud of the superb quality of ultra-fine Australian Chardonnay and all it brings into our lives.
Cullen Kevin John, Deep Woods Reserve and Leeuwin Estate Art Series, Vasse Felix Heytesbury and the lesser-known Windows Estate La Fenêtre were top Margaret River performers while Cullen’s Kevin John Flower Day and Kevin John Fruit Day Chardonnays stood out for their exaggerated but evocative style.
…we should be proud of the superb quality of ultra-fine Australian Chardonnay and all it brings into our lives.
Meanwhile Bindi Quartz, By Farr GC Côte Vineyard, Giaconda, Oakridge 864 Funder & Diamond Vineyard, Savaterre, Tolpuddle and Penfolds Yattarna all showed their class as top Australian chardonnay styles, albeit showing distinct differences in weight and composition.
The top imported wines were Maison Roche de Bellene’s classical Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatières and Kumeu River Maté Vineyard.
