Mount Edelstone Vineyard Shiraz is consistently one of Australia’s most identifiable and beautiful wines
Henschke’s 2022 Single Vineyard Collection, marking the 70th vintage of Henschke Mount Edelstone, is a transformative release where the transparency of the vineyards, the stature of the vines, and the character of the growing season all combine to tell the story of the vintage. The purity, resonance and expressive characters that appear in the wines reveal the essence and genius of vineyard site. While this is by no means a perfect year, it is a defining one because the vines have delivered a crop that profoundly express their origin, their age and their place.
The 2021/2022 growing season was not without its challenges with cool weather delaying growth and a hailstorm battering young shoots. A burst of warm weather over summer, beneficial late January rains and mild dry conditions into harvest time allowed the grapes to ripen perfectly. But the tannins only reached ever-so-near-phenolic maturity. A gentle grip on the palate is a feature of the single vineyard red wines. And it is offset exquisitely with purity and density. Maturation in seasoned (or primarily seasoned oak) has led to wines with lovely volume and completeness.
Winemaking is distinctly laissez faire. No better example is the 2022 Henschke Hil of Grace. It is the vineyard laid bare – a tribute to the extraordinary work of Prue Henschke and her team over the last forty years. There is no signature-style winemaking to be seen; not a grain of new oak flavouring or manipulation. The vineyard is seemingly in control. The vines, through epigenetic adaptation, have stumped up something special. But they are greatly assisted by nurture. Prue Henscke says
‘Using the principles of organics and biodynamics enables me to create the best environment for plant growth. Since I started using these practices, I am seeing the benefits in greater expression of aromas and textures in the wines from all our vineyards.’
Mount Edelstone Vineyard Shiraz is consistently one of Australia’s most identifiable and beautiful wines. The 2022 vintage hallmarks the vineyard’s reputation and the wine may well become one of those black horses that run down to the finish as a cup winner. The Wheelwright Shiraz, based on 1968 plantings and previously a contributor to the Keyneton Euphonium Shiraz series, is now in theory an ‘old vine’ vineyard. But it probably has another decade before the wine truly shines at the same level as Mount Edelstone. Nonetheless the 2022 vintage has some lovely energy and torque. 2022 Hill of Roses, a 1989 block, within the Hill of Grace Vineyard, shows its exceptional provenance and promises to develop along similar lines to its more famous sibling.
2022 Hill of Peace Semillon is based on a small block of 1952 plantings. This early-picked style is very similar to a young Hunter Valley Semillon, previously known as Shepherd’s Riesling or Hunter River Riesling. Like Chateau Haut Brion Blanc, this wine is a rarity and promises to develop into something special.
Stephen Henschke describes the 2022 vintage collection as a ‘vintage graced by belief.’ These are all lovely wines and represent so much about the culture and romance of fine Australian wine.
2022 Henschke Hill of Peace Semillon, Eden Valley – South Australia
Pale colour. Fresh camomile, limes, tonic water aromas with hint tropical fruit notes. Pure-fruited and mouthwatering with lime and lemon pastille flavours, fine bitter textures and fresh indelible acidity. Finishes crispy and long. Very good mid-palate concentration, tension and mineral length. So riesling-like. 13 rows of 1952 plantings (74 years old Survivor Vines). Matured for 5 months in 100% seasoned French oak barriques. Will age for years. 11.5% alc 96 points
2022 Henschke Cyril Henschke Cabernet Sauvignon, Eden Valley – South Australia
Deep crimson. Fragrant inky cassis, hint graphite/ dark chocolate aromas with herb garden notes and a hint of aniseed. Pure and classical with ample blackcurrant, elderberry fruits, fine slinky firm tannins, very good volume and underlying fresh acidity. High tensile and elemental. 20 months in 5% new and 95% French oak hogsheads. Very tight with al-dente/ hint sappy finish. Elements will further develop and fold. Very good energy and flow. But allow more bottle-aging. Drink 2027 – 2042 14.5% 95 points
2022 Henschke The Wheelwright Shiraz, Eden Valley – South Australia
Deep crimson. Attractive lifted red cherry, raspberry with bush garrigue, hint capsicum/ peppercorn aromas. Generous and smooth with red cherry, raspberry, capsicum, touch dark chocolate flavours, fine dense chalky/ grippy firm tannins, underlying marzipan notes and fresh long juicy acidity. Still youthful but showing promise. 1968 plantings (38 years – Old Vine). Matured for 20 months in 10% new and 90% seasoned French oak hogsheads. 14.5% alc 93 points
2022 Henschke Mount Edelstone Shiraz, Eden Valley – South Australia
Deep crimson. Very attractive pure elderberry, blackberry, sage, bush garrigue with hints of roasted walnut/ marzipan. Generous blackberry, raspberry fruits, some brambly notes, fresh peppery / al dente/ bittersweet textures, underlying savoury notes, a hint of caramel, and fresh long crunchy acidity. Very pure, tight and incomplete but should unfold, build richness and volume with a few more years of bottle age. A sleeper vintage? I would bet on it. Matured for 20 months in 8% new and 92% seasoned French oak hogsheads. Drink 2028 – 2046 14.5% alc 97+ points
2022 Henschke Hill of Roses Shiraz, Eden Valley – South Australia
Deep crimson. Intense dark cherry, dark chocolate espresso aromas with herb garden aromas. Pure and fruity with dark cherry, raspberry, chinotto, dark chocolate flavours, fine bittersweet, touch gravelly textures and underlying savoury notes. Still looking elemental and compact but lovely flavour and richness. Chocolaty firm and long. Will evolve. 1989 Post Office Block (Hill of Grace Vineyard) plantings. Matured for 20 months in 100% seasoned French oak hogsheads. Drink 2027 – 2028 14.5% alc 95 points
2022 Henschke Hill of Grace Shiraz, Eden Valley – South Australia
Deep crimson. Fresh and expressive pure blackberry, graphite aromas with touch marzipan/ bush garrigue notes. Expansive and linear in structure with blackberry pastille, praline, touch cedar flavours, plentiful chalky/ grainy textures and underlying roasted walnut notes. 20 months maturation in 100% seasoned French oak hogsheads. Generous, resonating and minerally with lovely richness, density and torque. C1869, 1910, 1951, 1952, 1956 & 1962 plantings. The vineyard laid bare. Very fresh and modern. Keep for a while before drinking. 2028 – 2048 14.5% alc 98 points
