Henschke Hill of Peace 2022
$90 95/100
A 100% Semillon from 11 rows in the Hill of Grace vineyard planted in 1952, made in tiny volumes as a labour of great love to showcase the variety’s Eden Valley regional compatibility. Maturation for five months in seasoned French barriques then close to four years of rest in bottle before release has allowed this wine to come of age on release, opening with classic varietal airs of lemon barley water and cut hay before pouring into a generous palate expression of those aromatics with a neat balance of flavours, acidity and pithy textures, Delicious – a joy to see Semillon offered such respect.
Henschke Cyril Henschke 2022
$210 96/100
From the Henschke’s Eden Valley estate’s vineyard, 100% Cabernet Sauvignon planted by (and named after) Cyril, Stephen Henschke’s father in the late 1960s. Not only reflecting its celebrated provenance, but also a cooler vintage, this is a clear and present Cabernet with herbal high tones, capsicum and green peppercorn combining in a mint like note, perhaps rosemary as well, the palate taking in all those characters to imbue its ripe elderberry flavours with a botanical feel, gathered in the finish with soft, fine gravel dusted tannins. It has a historic feel to it, with an elegant structure and the sense its future in the bottle will last for decades.
Henschke The Wheelwright 2022
$165 94/100
From vines planted near the village of Eden Valley in 1968 by Cyril Henschke, this is a big, generous Shiraz with plenty of savoury elements to add depth and complexity – earthy notes, bay leaf and black olive offer a background to higher toned floral aromas that suggest violet at first, all harmonising and hugging the fruit core in the palate. Prominent tannins add to this solid style, a wine with power yet still intensely warm-hearted.
Henschke Mt Edelstone 2022
$300 98/100
100% Shiraz from 110 year old vines out of the Henschke family’s celebrated Mt Edelstone Vineyard in the Eden Valley. Matured for 20 months in just 8% new, the rest seasoned French oak hogsheads, this vintage has all the hallmarks of its 70 year history as a masterful single vineyard creation. Dark crimson in the glass, with crushed plum and a faint waft of native bush in the higher toned aromas, underpinned by senses of iron, ink and flint-stone. The flow into the mouth brings to life jubed black currant fruit pastille flavours with bay leaf, kitchen herbals, peppercorn and savoury spices, lifted mid-palate with delightfully balanced acidity and gently arriving, soft wool-like tannins. A wine for the here and now as well as for ages to come.
Henschke Hill of Roses 2022
$495 95/100
From 33-year-old Shiraz vines selected out of Henschke’s famed Hill of Grace vineyard and planted in 1989 as a nursery block adjacent to the original. (On this wine’s release in 2026, the vines are now 36 years old and eligible to be recognised in their own right as “old vines” within the Barossa region’s Old Vine Charter.) That said, there’s an exuberance in this wine, florals and spice to the front, with deep plum fruits, fresh, delicate and pretty, perfumed with youthful juiciness in the palate, its spice notes more peppery than exotic. An exciting next-gen wine from extraordinary DNA stock, revealing its mid-life charms.
Henschke 2022 Hill of Grace 2022
$1100 99/100
Arguably the most famous, historic family estate vineyard in the country, and certainly in the Eden Valley as the cooler and higher region in the wider Barossa zone. This comes from a highly regarded vintage, celebrated by the Henschke team for its balance of yield against the season; the source vines ranging from the oldest which have seen around 160 vintages, as well as a smaller selection of 35-100 year olds. A wine with a stored wisdom and depth of character, revealed by its marriage of dark berried fruit and exotic spices, a sophisticated ease of stature and balance of flavour, fruit drive, structure and volume, with underlying power and energy yet surprisingly fresh and vibrant. Completely in its own zone with a view to staying alive and exciting for many, many years.
