The 70th vintage of Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet Sauvignon is a reminder that time marches on and that change is always inevitable. The ‘Black Label’ livery has been updated to mark this historic waypoint of this series. First made in 1954, the wine has been the longstanding regional reference for cabernet Sauvignon. While 2023 will not be remembered as the finest vintage of this decade, the newly badged ‘The Original’, is a decent claret style, albeit short in stuffing. The firm, almost muscular structure reflects a cool and difficult growing season while the flavours are not as generous as one would expect of this series. Nonetheless a short time in the cellar will probably allow things to settle to reveal something more complete. The 2022s are better wines but their true colours are probably hidden by bottling-shock. The Michael Shiraz looks great because of its ethereal aromatics and plush lines, but the cork-sealed John Riddoch, a style which I have always admired, seems jagged and unresolved. All the elements are still fighting it out and the oak dominates. But this is probably illusional and fleeting. In all likelihood, the fruit has been knocked unconscious through the process of bottling.
It will come back and bring everything into balance, doubtless in time for the September ‘Beyond Bordeaux’ tastings which take place in advance of its release on ‘La Place de Bordeaux.’ The 2022 Childs Single Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon is also looking a touch incomplete although the fruit is more present it the wine. With a few more years, it will be drinking perfectly. The 2024 Wynns Coonawarra Estate Chardonnay shows typical varietal definition and creamy textures while having very good volume and linear freshness. Its conventional and safe rather than exciting, but this is exactly what a general audience wants. Nonetheless, I get the feeling that subtle changes in winemaking are taking place at Wynns Coonawarra Estate but it’s difficult to know whether this is a reflection of nature or nurture? Or rearrangement of the furniture? The brand’s new strapline ‘Brutally Elegant’, however, suggests that different directions are taking place.
2024 Wynns Coonawarra Estate Chardonnay, Coonawarra – South Australia
Pale colour. Fresh lemon glacé, white peach, tonic water aromas with hints of roasted almond/ marzipan. Creamy and refreshing on the palate with ample lemon curd, stone fruit, tonic water flavours, fine loose knit chalky textures, attractive mid-palate creaminess and underlying vanilla/ marzipan notes. Finishes crisp and minerally. 8 months maturation in 27% new and 73% seasoned French oak barrels. Drink now – 2030 13.2% 93 points
2023 Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Coonawarra – South Australia
Deep crimson. Fresh blackcurrant pastille herb garden/ bush garrigue aromas with underlying roasted chestnut/ vanilla notes. Inky deep cassis, blackberry fruits, some graphite/ cola notes, fine grainy/ touch grippy tannins and well-integrated roasted chestnut notes. Builds up al dente/ leafy firm at the finish with bitter-sweet notes. A cool expression of Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon and missing the mid-palate volume of the best years. It should develop more richness with bottle age, but the tannins will always remain sinewy. The 70th vintage in a contiguous and unbroken line since 1954. Has always been referred to as Black Label by collectors in the secondary wine market but now rebadged ‘The original’ with new and polarising corporate livery. 16 months maturation in French oak barriques (32%) hogsheads (58%) and stainless-steel vats (10%). 31% new French oak, 27% one-year-old and 42% seasoned barrels. Drink now – 2038. 13.8% alc 93 points
2022 Wynns Coonawarra Estate Childs Single Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Coonawarra – South Australia
Deep crimson. Intense and lifted black cherry, cassis, sage, aniseed aromas with underlying cedar notes. A classical claret like style with pure blackcurrant, black cherry, mulberry fruits, finely grained tannins, attractive mid palate volume and well-balanced vanilla/ spice notes. Finishes chewy firm, long and minerally/ juicy with chinotto notes. Still in its elemental phase but beautifully balanced wine. Needs a few years to reach completeness. 16 months maturation in French oak barriques (80%) and hogsheads (20%). 30% new French oak, 30% one-year-old and 40% seasoned barrels. Drink 2027 – 2038 13.6% alc 95 points
2022 Wynns Coonawarra Estate John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon, Coonawarra – South Australia
Deep crimson. Blackcurrant, dark cacao, roasted chestnut aromas with bush garrigue notes. Generously concentrated pure cassis, dark chocolate, roasted chestnut flavours, plentiful fine-grained tannins, a touch of cloves and some chinotto inky complexity. Very good mid-palate richness, underlying vanilla notes and persistent mineral acidity. The oak tautens the wine to a bittersweet dark chocolaty/ cedary finish. Expressive, classical and linear, but will unfold with time. One for the long haul. 17 months maturation in French oak barriques and hogsheads. 43% new French oak, 42% one-year-old and 15% seasoned barrels. Drink 2028 – 2042 13.5% alc 95+ points
2022 Wynns Coonawarra Estate Michael Shiraz, Coonawarra – South Australia
Deep crimson. Beautiful black cherry, peppercorn, sage aromas with vanilla, roasted chestnut notes. Inky deep wine with black cherry, mulberry, blackberry fruits, fine persistent chocolaty tannins and beautifully integrated new oak. Finishes claret firm with peppery/ chinotto spice notes. A lovely characterful Coonawarra Shiraz with impressive definition, richness and flow. Delicious drinking already. 12 months maturation in French oak barriques and hogsheads. 25% new French oak, 44% two-year-old and 31% three-year-old barrels. Drink now – 2038 13.1% alc 96 points
2024 Wynns Coonawarra Estate Single Vineyard Cabernet Franc, Coonawarra – South Australia
Medium deep crimson. Lifted peppery, graphite aromas with underlying blackcurrant brambly notes. Inky deep and minerally textured with attractive blackcurrant, graphite, hint cedar flavours, finely grained and persistent tannins and well-integrated roasted walnut oak. Chalky/ graphite notes at the finish. Impressively balanced and refined cabernet franc with excellent purity and definition. Best to drink early to medium term, Drink now – 2030. 12.9% alc 95 points
