Hill of Grace – Celebrating 60 Years
The 60th anniversary release of Henschke Hill of Grace was marked with a wonderful tasting of vintages going back to the first in 1958. These moments were a cause for reflection as the vineyard has become one of the foundations of Australia’s modern fine wine narrative. Although Hill of Grace was in the shadow of Penfolds Grange during the 1960s and 1970s, its stature and historical relevance became better understood during the 1980s. A combination of brilliant vineyard husbandry and technical winemaking skills brought the vineyard into sharper relief. On the other hand a succession of very fine older vintages is proof that the vineyard itself was well cared for and the more rudimentary winemaking of Cyril Henschke was completely aligned with the times.
The 1958 Vintage was a surprising revelation and perhaps proved that good bottles and well preserved wines are also a result of some luck too. The story of Hill of Grace, however, must also include the practical work in generating more market interest during the mid-to-late 1980s. Wine merchants Arch Baker in addition to Judy and Rob Hirst did much to put the Henschke brand on the map. This was echoed by the rising interest in the secondary wine market when auction prices doubled in 1995 and then doubled again in 1996 (after an internal recorking programme in 1994).
Of particular note, is the development of style and the singularity of Hill of Grace Shiraz over the decades. The 1950s and early 1960s start off being softer in texture, then more vigorous and claret like during the 1970s and 1980s. By the early-to-mid 1990s Hill of Grace becomes more reflective of the vintage, the vineyard and nature. Prue and Stephen Henschke are first scientists, but their pursuit of excellence and for the long term survival of their vineyard has changed their outlook. A willingness to accept that not all things can be explained has also led to a more philosophical way of looking after the vines and making the wines. Hill of Grace Shiraz cannot really be defined as a style. The transparency and character of the vineyard are the most obvious features each year. The ‘terroir’ is the defining factor!
‘The influence of the moon cycles has been an important and familiar feature in the operation of the Henschke vineyards. Mysteriously the Hill of Grace vines, whether the vintage arrives early or late, are ready to harvest close to the full moon after the Autumn equinox (Easter). Decades of vintages have shown that this is the optimal time in the moon cycle for harvest. Curiously, by the calendar, the date of Easter can vary by up to thirty-five days.’ Stephen Henschke in ‘The story of a single vineyard’ by Fiona McDonald.
The Henschke shiraz inheritance and the restorative work in their vineyards by Prue Henschke and her team underpin the significance of both Hill of Grace and Mount Edelstone — both remarkable outposts of colonial vine-stock shiraz. The move to organic and biodynamic viticulture and ecological practices bring a spirit of intent, based on the belief that survival and prosperity depends on giving more back to the land than is taken out. Henschke winemaking practices developed from the very early Barossa methods - including open fermentation - and further progressed with the enlightened imagination of Cyril Henschke (from the 1950s to the 1970s) and the technical brilliance of Stephen Henschke (from the early 1980s onwards) referencing both of these heritage vineyards into the Barossa vernacular. Mount Edelstone and Hill of Grace share the same nurture and love. Essentially, they are kindred souls with similar regional definition, structural elements and taste.
‘I think Hill of Grace has become the more famous of the two vineyards because the ‘terroir’ threads the past, the present and the future, with a profound spirit of romance and nostalgia. The 19th century legacy, the visual connection between Gnadenberg Church and wine, and the ‘future-proofing’ of old vines, are highly symbolic. The beautiful Hill of Grace moniker, coined by Cyril Henschke in the late 1950s, powerfully evokes the timeless spirit of the Henschke family, the character of the wine and the voice of the Barossa. Ascendant and transcendent are words that come to mind.’
Technical Data
Vineyard Location: Eden Valley wine region, 4km north-west of Henschke Cellars at Keyneton, in the Mount Lofty Ranges east of the Barossa Valley, South Australia.
Average Yield: 2.5t/ha (1t/acre)
Trellis: Two wire vertical, single wire at 70cm, Scott Henry.
Planting: Wide planting 3.1m x 3.4m. Most are planted east-west, some north-south, dry grown.
Treatments: Undervine mulching and permanent sward incorporating organic and biodynamic practices.
Rainfall: 520 mm
Altitude: 400 m
Latitude: 34°30’
Longitude: 139°07’
1958 Henschke Hill of Grace, Eden Valley – South Australia
Medium colour. Lovely developed apricot, wax polish, hint chinotto aromas with hints of praline/ graphite. Fresh apricot, wax polish, chinotto flavours, fine looseknit chalky tannins, attractive inky notes and fresh long mineral acidity. Light tannin plume at the finish. Gorgeous old wine with earthy notes. Shows the natural power of the vineyard. Drink now – soon 98 points
1961 Henschke Hill of Grace, Eden Valley – South Australia
Medium colour. Fresh developed crème brulée, hint marzipan, polished leather, wood varnish, hint cork wood aromas. Well concentrated slightly cork wood flavoured with developed red berry, earthy, marzipan, milk chocolate flavours, fine slinky, hint al dente textures, attractive mid palate viscosity and fresh integrated mineral torque. Finishes chalky and long. Still drinking well. Drink now- soon 94 points
1962 Henschke Hill of Grace, Eden Valley – South Australia
Medium crimson. Intense roasted coffee, dark chocolate, wax polish aromas with hints of dark fruits and leather. Generous and buoyant with fresh espresso, dark chocolate, dark berry fruits, fine slinky firm tannins, very good mid palate viscosity and fresh long acidity. Finishes lacy firm with dried apricot, dried plum notes. Still lovely to drink with animated vigour and lovely mineral length. Drink now – will keep for awhile. 13.5% alc 96 points
1966 Henschke Hill of Grace, Eden Valley – South Australia
Medium crimson. Developed red cherry stone, graphite, chinotto aromas with lifted wax polish, touch varnishy/ shellac notes. Minerally and varnishy on the palate with tawny port like notes fine bitter-sweet tannins, attractive mid palate volume and well balanced acidity. Varnishy finish. Still holding on by its fingernails. Drink up 91 points
1968 Henschke Hill of Grace, Eden Valley – South Australia
Medium crimson. Fragrant roasted walnut, hint shellac notes with remnants of red cherries, dried apricots and prunes. Sweet fruited and buoyant wine with roasted walnut, graphite, hint leather notes, fine looseknit chalky tannins, very attractive mid palate viscosity and perfectly integrated acidity. Not a great year, but a very good old bottle. Drink up 94 points
1972 Henschke Hill of Grace, Eden Valley – South Australia
Medium crimson. Roasted coffee, graphite aromas with chinotto, touch lifted notes. Well concentrated roasted coffee, graphite, hint meaty, apricot flavours, fine chalky silky textures, lovely density and underlying wax polish notes. Finishes firm and minerally, and a touch saline. Attractive gentle vigour and richness of flavour. Drink now 95 points
1973 Henschke Hill of Grace, Eden Valley – South Australia
Medium crimson. Leathery apricot, raspberry, dark chocolate aromas. Generously concentrated wine with roasted walnut, wax polish, redcurrant, raspberry flavours, fine loose knit slinky/ touch al dente tannins. Sturdy finish. Still drinking well with sweet and savoury notes with hints of primary fruit in the background. Drink now – soon 94 points
1978 Henschke Hill of Grace, Eden Valley – South Australia
Medium crimson. Intense and complex wine with roasted chestnut, roasted walnut, hint panforte. Generously concentrated and sturdy wine with fresh roasted walnut apricot, minerally flavour, a hint of soy, fine chalky firm tannins, very good mid-palate buoyancy and well-integrated acidity. Feathery firm finish. 12.5% alc Drink now – keep for a while 95 points
1982 Henschke Hill of Grace, Eden Valley – South Australia
Medium deep crimson. Intense coffee, wax polish, roasted walnut, apricot, redcurrant, hint marzipan aromas. Richly concentrated wine with ample roasted coffee, roasted walnut, red and black berry flavours, fine grainy tannins, very good volume, underlying savoury notes and refreshing long mineral acidity. 13% alc Drink now 95 points
1984 Henschke Hill of Grace, Eden Valley – South Australia
Medium deep crimson. Intense roasted chestnut, roasted walnut, espresso hint rum and raisin notes. Generous and slinky textured wine with developed leather, redcurrant flavours, fine grainy tannins, some tawny, soy notes, a hint of garrigue and noticeable American oak. A touch disjointed. 12% alc Drink now – keep for a while 90 points
1986 Henschke Hill of Grace, Eden Valley – South Australia
Medium deep crimson. Beautiful wine with intense roasted walnut, blackberry pastille, graphite aromas with hints of marzipan. Well concentrated and classical in structure with lovely developed blackberry, roasted walnut, roasted almond flavours, fine grainy claret-like structure and underlying savoury notes. Finishes firm with ample fruit complexity and mineral length. Lovely modulated power and elegance. 12.5% alc Drink now – 2030+ 99 points
1988 Henschke Hill of Grace, Eden Valley – South Australia
Medium crimson. Fresh developed stonefruit, strawberry, redcurrant and marzipan with herb, sage notes. Medium bodied wine with lovely strawberry, blackberry fruits, fine looseknit chalky tannins, attractive mid palate volume and well-integrated acidity. A touch atypical but delicious to drink. 13% alc Drink now – 2028 95 points
1990 Henschke Hill of Grace, Eden Valley – South Australia
Medium deep crimson. Developed blackberry pastille, marzipan, hint flyspray, sage aromas with tawny notes. Well concentrated but developed with blackberry, redcurrant fruits, fine grainy al dente tannins, and underlying marzipan, roasted walnut notes. Finishes firm and minerally - a claret style and moving towards modernity. Drink now – 2030 13.5% alc 94 points
1991 Henschke Hill of Grace, Eden Valley – South Australia
Medium deep crimson. Lovely roasted walnut, blackberry, espresso, mocha aromas with sage like notes. Well concentrated and inky wine with ample blackberry, roasted walnut, toasty flavours fine grainy, hint al dente textures and underlying mocha, mazipan notes. In beautiful condition. Drink now – 2035 13.5% alc 98 points
1992 Henschke Hill of Grace, Eden Valley – South Australia
Medium deep crimson. Intense blackberry, roasted chestnut, marzipan aromas with herb garden notes. Lovely blackberry, roasted chestnut marzipan flavours, fine slinky tannins, very good volume and mineral length. Finishes chocolate firm. Quite robust in this company. Drink now – 2030 14.1% alc 94 points
1996 Henschke Hill of Grace, Eden Valley – South Australia
Medium deep crimson. Fresh blackberry pastille, chinotto aromas with marzipan, minty aromas with hints of leather. Generously concentrated wine with ample blackberry, mulberry fruits, fine grainy, hint leafy tannins and underlying marzipan, roasted chestnut, leather and spice notes. Drink now – 2030+ 13.8% alc 96 points
2002 Henschke Hill of Grace, Eden Valley – South Australia
Medium deep crimson. Blackberry pastille, mulberry, mocha aromas with bush garrigue, sage notes. Very modern wine with fresh blackberry, mulberry fruits, fine looseknit chocolaty tannins, underlying mocha, vanilla notes and a hint of musky, parma violets. Finishes firm and minerally - very buoyant and expressive. Drink now – 2038 14.5% alc 95 points
2004 Henschke Hill of Grace, Eden Valley – South Australia
Medium deep crimson. Beautifully expressive wine with lifted blackberry, mocha sage aromas with hints of apricot. Lovely concentrated and balanced wine with fresh blackberry pastille, praline, mocha flavours, a hint of beef extract, fine loose knit grainy tannins and underlying herb garden sage notes. Finishes peppery and minerally - a superb, complex wine. Drink now – 2040 14% alc 99 points
2005 Henschke Hill of Grace, Eden Valley – South Australia
Medium deep crimson. Dark cherry, chinotto, mocha, hint vanilla aromas with herb garden notes. Well concentrated wine with blackberry pastille, dark cherry, hint mint/ sage flavours, fine slinky firm/ vigorous tannins and well-balanced mocha vanilla, marzipan notes. Finishes firm and surprisingly tight with hints of aniseed - a sturdy vintage. Drink now – 2035 14.5% alc 93 points
2006 Henschke Hill of Grace, Eden Valley – South Australia
Medium deep crimson. Intense blackberry, spice, praline, roasted chestnut, hint vanilla aromas. Inky deep wine with ample blackberry, roasted walnut, mocha flavours, fine loose knit chalky/ savoury tannins and some graphite notes. Finishes al dente firm with oaky notes. Still in evolution and best to keep. Drink now – 2040 14.5% alc **94+ points
2008 Henschke Hill of Grace, Eden Valley – South Australia
Medium deep crimson. Intense blackberry pastille, mulberry, dark chocolate aromas with herb garden notes. Richly flavoured wine with deep set blackberry pastille, mulberry, hint chinotto flavours, fine slinky firm textures, lovely mid palate richness/ volume and beautifully integrated mocha roasted chestnut notes. Finishes chocolaty with seductive black fruits and superb mineral length. Drink now – 2040 14.5% alc 97 points
2010 Henschke Hill of Grace, Eden Valley – South Australia
Medium deep crimson. Classical blackberry, sage aromas with underlying mocha notes. Superbly balanced wine with pure blackberry pastille, sage, herb garden flavours, a touch of spice, fine lacy tannins, superb mid palate viscosity and underlying roasted chestnut notes. Finishes chalky firm, a touch peppery and long. A brilliant wine with great resonance of place. Drink now – 2045 14.5% alc 100 points
2012 Henschke Hill of Grace, Eden Valley – South Australia
Medium deep crimson. Intense blackberry, graphite aromas with hints of mocha and vanilla. Voluminous wine with ample blackberry, mulberry fruits, fine chocolaty hint bitter tannins, very good volume, richness and underlying mocha/ vanilla oak. Finishes chocolaty firm and minerally. Another sturdy finish. Drink 2024 – 2035 14.5% 94 points
2015 Henschke Hill of Grace, Eden Valley – South Australia
Medium deep crimson. Fresh blackberry hedgerow aromas with vanilla sage notes. Slinky textured wine with blackberry herb garden flavours, fine loose knit touch brambly tannins and some vanilla mocha notes witha hint of pondwater. Finishes chalky with graphite notes. Very pretty and expressive vintage, but has become a little shy. Drink 2026 – 2048 14.5% alc 96 points
2016 Henschke Hill of Grace, Eden Valley – South Australia
Deep crimson. Intense blackberry mulberry, hint roasted chestnut aromas with sage notes. Intensely concentrated blackberry pastille, mulberry chinotto fruits, fine loose knit chalky al dente tannins, superb mid-palate volume and well-integrated mocha roasted chestnut oak notes. Lovely richness, volume and fruit complexity. 14.5% alc Drink 2028 – 2048+ 97 points
2018 Henschke Hill of Grace, Eden Valley – South Australia
Deep crimson. Fresh blackberry pastille, mulberry elderberry chinotto aromas with mocha, roasted chestnut aged notes with dried roses, sage herb garden complexity. Beautifully balanced with voluminous blackberry, mulberry, elderberry roasted chestnut flavours, lovely fine grained and loose knit tannins, superb volume, and integrated acidity. Finishes firm and minerally long. A superb young wine that is destined to become a classic vintage. Drink 2028 - 2045 14.5% alc 100 points