2024 Giant Steps

Eugene Von Guerard’s 1857 painting ‘Fern Tree Gully’ depicts a glorious and romanticised Australian bush landscape at the foothills of the Dandenong Ranges in Victoria. The soaring Tree Ferns and dense lush forest give a sense of coolness and a shaft of sunlight reveals two lyrebirds almost in silhouette. Von Guerard exaggerated the landscape to create a scene that did not in reality exist. Yet the stylised composition evocatively captured a mood of place.  While Fern Tree Gully has become an outer suburb of Melbourne, Guerard’s painting could easily depict the scenery around the Upper Yarra Valley and the road leading to Bastard Hill, a vineyard established for a group of investors in 1987 by Ray Guerin, arguably the most impactful and resourceful viticulturist in Australia’s wine history.

It does not need much imagination to understand why the vineyard was given its name. Having harvested grapes on the steep slopes of the Mosel way back in the early 1980s, I know what a bastard-of-a-hill feels like. Walking up and down a 32 degree slope several times a day is achingly challenging work. When observing the Bastard Hill Vineyard from its highest point, one can almost catch the grumbling of vineyard-workers past amongst the pretty song of lyre birds and the gentle breeze.

In previous times the Bastard Hill property, at Gladysville in the Upper Yarra Valley, had been carved out of temperate forest and planted with cherry trees. The steepest parts were used for grazing sheep. The arrival of Domain Chandon in the Yarra Valley and a demand for cool-climate chardonnay and pinot noir for sparkling wine production led to a change in ownership. The 31-hectare Bastard Hill property is regarded as a marginal site, with a long cool growing season, typically 4 or 5 degrees cooler than the valley floor. In some years it has been difficult to ripen the fruit, but in others the results have been spectacular. Under Hardy’s previous ownership, the vineyard was enthusiastically discovered by Tom Newton and Steve Pannell, who secured fruit for releases under the ill-fated Bastard Hill label. The wines were well-received, but they did not take off in the market.

Bastard Hill Vineyard, now 13 hectares and planted primarily with chardonnay and pinot noir (8 rows of cabernet sauvignon), is enjoying a new lease of life under the ownership of Giant Steps. The winery was first established by drinks entrepreneur Phil Sexton in 1982 and made famous by his exceptional winemaker Steve Flamsteed. They memorably missed out winning the Jimmy Watson Trophy for their 2012 Applejack Vineyard Pinot Noir, because of an accounting error (see the Canon of Australian Wine in The Australian Ark). In 2020, Giant Steps was acquired by the enlightened US-based Jackson Family Wines and soon after in 2022 the Bastard Hill Vineyard was purchased from the beleaguered Accolade Wines. This will probably be seen as ‘a deal of the century’ in future years. Many observers believe that Bastard Hill Vineyard is potentially one of the best chardonnay sites in Australia.

Viticulturalist Ashley Wood and Ray Guerin, working as a consultant, have been equipped with the best resources to revive the fortunes of the Bastard Hill Vineyard. A fence line was constructed at the edge of the forest to protect the vines from deer and kangaroos. The creeks were cleared of debris to improve flow and a 17 megalitre dam is being built at a high point to hold water over summer. An Italian-made caterpillar tractor, designed to travel up and down steep slopes, was acquired to improve work-flow and safety in the vineyard. Sustainable farming techniques are also being introduced to improve soil health and compaction. Some marginal vineyard plots have been pulled up to make way for new plantings and better performing clones and rootstocks. The cost of running this vineyard is approximately an extra $10,000 per hectare compared to vineyards on the valley floor. This highlights the challenge and the opportunity of working such a unique and potentially great vineyard site.

The Bastard Hill Vineyard lies over a ridge like a saddle. On the north-northeast facing (and earlier ripening) side, the vineyard slopes down vertiginously towards Hoddles Creek and on the southern side, the vines angle down to the aptly named Wombat Creek. There are a lot of wombats that live in the Dandenong ranges and no fence line can stop them. But they are not nearly as destructive as kangaroos or deer. In addition, a colony of koalas also live in the treelines above the vines giving the place a distinct Australian character.

The friable, red basalt soils are a contrast to the predominant grey clay soils of the lower Yarra Valley. The high altitude (350-400m) and steep slopes also mean greater air circulation and exemplary air and rain drainage. Consequently, the vineyard has never been exposed to frost damage or flooding. Cover crops reduce the risk of erosion and improve nutrient levels in the soil.

Phil Sexton has described the chardonnay from Bastard Hill as being ‘the closest thing to Chablis in Australia,’ perhaps alluding to the tight linear structure of the wines.  The vineyard is currently entirely planted to the 1969-imported French clone 110V1, which is renowned for its fruit clarity, structural precision and moderate yields; ideal qualities for sparkling wine production. But better vineyard management techniques, the clone’s ability to hold its natural acidity and more consistent results promise to elevate the reputation of the vineyard in future years. Consistent to the times, the vineyard is also planted with the wonderful heirloom MV6 clone, which has a history going back to 1832 and direct provenance to the Clos de Vougeot vineyard in Burgundy. This high-performing clone is well known for its deep colour, intense flavours and juicy acidity. Another pinot clone D5V12, first brought into Australia during the 1960s from Beaujolais, is well known for its reliable yields and late ripening attributes.

The well-credentialed and resourceful Melanie Chester joined Giant Steps as head of winemaking and viticulture in 2021 and has already made an immense impact on future directions. As the company’s general manager, she is charged with taking Giant Steps to the very top of Australia’s fine wine hierarchy. The acquisition of Bastard Hill highlights great ambitions. But more importantly Melanie Chester understands that memory and knowledge are key aspects of making great wine, as much as energy, enthusiasm and skill. Her core team comprising winemaker Michael Latham and viticulturalist Ashley Wood represent an exceptional and enterprising winemaking team. But having access to the wisdom and experience of Ray Guerin and Steve Flamsteed rounds out the edges to make something tangibly farsighted and exciting. In addition, Giant Steps possesses key vineyards across the Yarra including Tarraford (8.5ha/100m), Sexton (30 ha/ 130-210m), Primavera (12 ha/240m) and the Ray Guerin-planted Applejack (12.5 ha/ 180-260).  With almost every variance of elevation, gradient and soil type, winemakers are almost spoilt for choice. As these latest releases prove, Giant Steps is making some of the Australia’s very best cool-climate wines. And the finest are probably yet to come.

2023 Giant Steps Tarraford Vineyard Chardonnay, Yarra Valley – Victoria

Pale colour. Fresh flinty, oyster shell, grapefruit, tonic water aromas. Beautiful grapefruit, lemon curd, hint marzipan, honey flavours, fine lacy textures, lovely mid-palate richness and fresh persistent tingling acidity. Wonderful concentration and energy while creamy and minerally. Drink now – 2028 13.5% alc 95 points

2023 Giant Steps Sexton Vineyard Chardonnay, Yarra Valley – Victoria

Pale colour. Fresh lemon curd, grapefruit, nectarine aromas with touch of vanillin. Generous, minerally and supple with pure grapefruit, white peach, nectarine, hint marzipan flavours, fine looseknit lacy textures and fresh long mineral acidity. Some saline/ bitter sweet notes at the finish. More volume than Tarraford with superb clarity, freshness and length. Drink now – 2028 13.5% alc 96 points

2023 Giant Steps Applejack Vineyard Chardonnay, Yarra Valley - Victoria

Pale colour. Flinty, grapefruit, nectarine, pear skin aromas with marzipan, hint tonic water notes. Generous, flavourful and mouth filling with ample ripe nectarine, grapefruit flavours, lacy fine textures, attractive mid-palate richness and well-integrated quartz-like acidity. Finishes long and minerally. Superb definition, purity, volume and tension. A wonderful wine. 13% alc 97 points

2023 Giant Steps Bastard Hill Vineyard Chardonnay, Yarra Valley – Victoria

Pale colour. Minerally nectarine, lemon curd, grapefruit aromas with roasted almond, waxy notes. Exceptionally refined and pure with intense nectarine, grapefruit, lemony flavours, supple textures, attractive minerally volume and fresh long crispy acidity. Concentrated and fine boned with some saline notes. A touch more bottle age will give it more weight and complexity. 13% alc 96 points

2023 Giant Steps Bastard Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir, Yarra Valley – Victoria

Light to medium crimson. Black cherry, strawberry, hint ginger aromas with roasted almond, touch vanilla notes. Attractive black cherry, strawberry, marzipan flavours, fine bitter sweet textures, underlying marzipan notes and fresh long juicy acidity. A touch of chinotto at the finish. Buoyant, supple and minerally with very good fruit density and impact. Drink now – 2030 13.2% alc 95 points

2023 Giant Steps Primavera Vineyard Pinot Noir, Yarra Valley – Victoria

Light medium crimson. Strawberry, candied red cherry, touch beetroot aromas with savoury cola notes. Pure fruited wine with abundant strawberry pastille, red cherry fruits, fine loose knit chalky, hint al-dente textures, attractive mid-palate volume and mineral length. Drink now – 2028 13.2% alc 94 points

2023 Giant Steps Applejack Vineyard Pinot Noir, Yarra Valley – Victoria

Medium crimson. Fresh ripe strawberry, black cherry, hint geosmine/ herb aromas and flavours with marzipan/ vanilla notes. Supple, buoyant and generous with ample strawberry pastille, juicy black cherry fruits, lacy/ loose knit tannins, lovely mid palate viscosity with well balanced and integrated acidity. A classical pinot noir with lovely density and gentle vigour. Delicious. Drink now – 2032 13.2% alc 95 points

2023 Giant Steps Sexton Vineyard Pinot Noir, Yarra Valley – Victoria

Medium crimson. Intense strawberry glacé, black cherry, hint herb/ chinotto aromas. with marzipan/ vanilla notes. Beautifully concentrated and pure-fruited wine with plentiful strawberry pastille, dark cherry, touch cola flavours, fine al-dente/ chewy textures, underlying almond/ vanilla notes and fresh mineral acidity. Everything in beautiful balance. Super wine. Drink now – 2030 13.5% alc 96 points

2023 Giant Steps Coal River Valley Pinot Noir, Yarra Valley – Victoria

Medium deep crimson. Lifted black cherry aromas with negroni/ chinotto / marzipan notes. Richly concentrated and pure-fruited pinot noir with intense black cherry, strawberry fruits, some negroni-like flavours, chalky/ al dente textures, underlying vanilla, grilled nut, saline notes and fresh long juicy acidity. Finishes long and crispy. Beautifully made wine with lovely density and volume. Drink now – 2030 13.5% alc 96 points