2022 Cullen Diana Madeline
Forty years ago, I would often bump into Vanya Cullen at the queue for lunch or dinner at Roseworthy Agricultural College. Since those days, when our future was just imagined and our ambitions were framed within the expectations of our families, her career as a winemaker has flourished. In addition, she has enjoyed a remarkable international reputation for her Wilyabrup- Margaret River wines and wine judging expertise. Although from the outside it seems like the perfect journey, it has been far from it. There have been stumbles, moments of anxiety and battles of various kinds along the way. But ultimately success has prevailed.
Vanya’s family’s winery was established by her parents Kevin John and Diana Madeline Cullen in 1971 and, over the last half-century, it has played an intricate role in defining the character of the Margaret River wine region. During the 1980s Vanya joined the family business and brought technical expertise and flair. Together with her equally inventive mother, they quickly became champions for the cause of women in wine and a symbol of creativity and craftsmanship in fine wine.
After Di Cullen died in 2003, the Cullen family rebadged Cullen’s increasingly admired Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot blend Diana Madeline, in memory of her extraordinary contribution to winemaking. Meanwhile Vanya brought in new ideas of sustainable farming in the form of organic and then biodynamic viticulture and winemaking practices. At first, she was seen as a nutcase by the local community, but her ideas and commitment to leaving the land in a better place was unshakable.
Vanya’s belief in creating a model sustainable wine growing estate was ably assisted by the quiet, multi-skilled and loyal winemaker Trevor Kent who helped Cullen reach carbon-neutral by 2006. Although he retired in 2017, his contribution still echoes in the quality and style of the family’s wines. But of course, quite rightly, Vanya Cullen has achieved extraordinary notoriety and fame for her pioneering work in sustainable winegrowing and for the quality of her wines. In 2023, she was the recipient of an Order of Australia Medal (OAM), for her services to viticulture and wine.
There are few winemakers in the world that transcend their vocations. The artistry of winemaking is rare, because ultimately shaping wine is really a craft. But Vanya adds a level of spirituality and belief that harnesses the natural forces of nature, a feeling of place and her creative imagination to produce something different and expressive. The 2022 Diana Madeline is an exceptional wine that evokes all things beautiful.
2022 Cullen Diana Madeline, Margaret River – Western Australia
Deep colour. Ethereal cassis, light marzipan, vanilla with hints of violet. Fresh blackcurrant pastille, marzipan, cedar flavour and fine bittersweet/ grainy tannins. Finishes claret firm, with pure dark berry fruits and superb mineral length. Elegantly proportioned, pristine and sinuous with excellent cellaring potential. A genuine Australian First Growth highlighting the genius of vineyard site, meticulous harvesting (five separate picking times), empathetic and imaginative winemaking. 89% cabernet sauvignon, 5% merlot, 3% cabernet franc, 3% malbec, 14 months maturation in new (55%) and seasoned French oak. A classic vintage; up there with the best. Keep for a while to allow some bottle age development as you will be greatly rewarded. 13.5% alc 99 points